All About Worms » Worm Farming

Compost Pests

Michelle — Tue, 11 May 2010 17:48:09 +0000

Many pests attack compost piles that have been improperly constructed. These pests are not to be confused with worms that help the composting process. In fact, many people want worms in their compost piles and may even purchase a worm or two to get the process started or to help move the composting process along more quickly.

However, if you are creating a compost pile, the last thing you want is to attract a lot of pests. Many pests are unhealthy for humans and may pose a health risk. Even if no health risk exists, pests will undoubtedly make the job of maintaining a compost pile more difficult. They are also quite annoying.

Following are a few of the more common compost pests that result from an improperly constructed pile, a pile that is not turned properly, or a pile that has thin edges creating a space for pests to congregate and breed. Pests can be treated with a variety of biological treatments such as Bacillus thuringiensis (or Bt), chemicals or natural treatments that can be found at your local garden center.

Stable Flies
Stable Flies look like houseflies. They are gray with black stripes and spots; however, they have a beak that is not present on the common housefly. This beak is used in a similar fashion as that of the mosquito. It is used to feed on the blood of humans and other animals making it a rather annoying and dangerous pest. Diseases can be transferred in a similar fashion to that of the mosquito. These flies feed most aggressively in the mornings and evenings.

House Flies
House Flies are also gray with black stripes on their head. They feed on liquid food, which is why they are often found in or near compost piles. Their mouth acts like a sponge to take in their food. Houseflies are annoying and breed frequently but they are harmless.

Green June Beetles
Green June Beetles are metallic in appearance and green along with a bit of yellow on their wings. They fly a lot and make a very loud buzzing sound when they are airborne, which is most often during the day when the sun is shining. They are known for running into whatever is in their path, including humans. Green June Beetles lay their eggs in organic waste. This is one of the reasons they are attracted to compost piles. It is the perfect breeding ground for the beetle. Beetle larvae are often confused for worms as they grow up to two inches long before they pupate. They can also reach up to one-half inch in diameter making them a rather difficult to miss.

What is Vermicomposting?

Michelle — Fri, 12 Mar 2010 15:00:49 +0000

Vermicomposting is the process of using worms to recycle organic material and food scraps into a useful soil amendment called “vermicompost.” As worms consume food scraps, the material becomes compost as it passes though the worms body and exits through its tail. The result is a powerful fertilizer that can be used to help grow plants to their maximum potential. Worm compost is such a powerful fertilizer mainly because worms tend to eat nutrient packed fruit and vegetable scraps and their bodies turn the scraps into nutrient-rich compost.

To begin the vermicomposting process, you will need several items including:

·Raw fruits and vegetables
·A shallow container (24″ X 18″ X 8″ should suffice) with a lid (make sure there are holes in the bottom
·Moist Leaves
· Worms: red worms, such as Eisenia foetida or
other surface feeding worms. Do not use earth worms. They will not survive in a worm composting system

After (not before) your worm bed is complete, purchase your red worms. Two pounds, which is equal to around 2,000 worms, should suffice. Red worms can be purchased from a number of online retailers or at most plant and pet stores. To start the worm bin, wash out the container or bin that you are using. Make sure there are holes in the bottom for water to drain. If the liquid doesn’t drain, a worm bin will most likely go anaerobic and the worms may possibly drown. Managing moisture in the bin is important.

Mix the organic materials together and add the worms. Worms should be fed periodically — not all at once. Too much food at one time will attract nuisance bugs, maybe animals too, and will probably start to smell after a short while. There are different methods for managing bins to keep pests like fruit flies under control. Temperature control is important. Heat will destroy your worms. Freezing cold will kill your worms, but the egg cases will survive. A plastic bin should never be put in the sun.

It takes roughly 3-5 months for the worms to eat through the materials. At this time, you will notice very little materials and a hefty amount of compost. Once this happens, it’s time to harvest.

Harvesting means — do not add any food to the bin for two weeks. When two weeks has passed, simply move all of the worm bin contents to one side of the bin and remove any large pieces of undecomposed materials. Add fresh materials – leaves, fruits and vegetables, to the empty side of the bin. Over the next two weeks or so, the worms will begin to move to the side where the new materials are located, leaving their compost behind. All that is needed at this point is to remove the old compost and replace it with fresh materials. Cover the new side of the composting bin to encourage the worms to migrate to the new side.

When you are ready to use your fresh worm compost, you can use several methods of extraction, but one method in particular seems to be the most effective. Dump the entire contents of the bin onto a large sheet of plastic and make several piles. Once exposed to the light, the worms will quickly bury themselves in the bottom of the compost within 2-3 minutes. After a few minutes, remove the top layer of compost, leaving the worms on the bottom. Once you have removed all of the worm compost, simply collect the worms and return them to the composting bin.

Worm compost material is ready to use immediately or if you choose, you can store it for later use. Worm compost can be added directly into your potting soil or mixed in with your garden soil as a soil amendment. If you notice a worm or two in the compost, don’t be alarmed. This is fairly common. Worm compost use is not limited to outdoor gardening. You can also use worm compost in the tops of your indoor plants. And don’t worry, the odor is not offensive.

Want more vermicomposting tips? Visit: wormwoman.com.

How to Make a School Worm Farm

Michelle — Tue, 02 Feb 2010 15:00:50 +0000

Before we get started with the steps to make a school worm farm, let’s discuss what a worm farm (and worm farming) actually is and isn’t. A worm farm isn’t actually a farm where worms are raised like, say, cows, chickens, and pigs. A worm farm is basically a bin. More on this later. Raising worms is a common practice as it allows individuals or companies to raise large numbers of worms to sell as fish bait, animal food or for composting. Raising worms is not done outdoors on a “farm.” It is done under controlled conditions, usually indoors.

“Worm farming” is actually a process of using worms to recycle organic material and food scraps into a useful soil amendment called vermicompost. Vermicompost is also called “worm compost.” Other terms for worm farm include “worm composting” or “vermiculture.”

When worms consume food scraps, the scraps become compost as they pass though the worms body. The compost exits the worm’s body through its tail. The result is a powerful fertilizer that can be used to help grow plants to their maximum potential. The reason that the worm compost is such a powerful fertilizer is that worms eat nutrient packed fruit and vegetable scraps and in turn, their bodies turn the scraps into nutrient-rich compost.

To start your worm farm, you will need several items:

·Raw fruits and vegetables
·A shallow container (24″ X 18″ X 8″ should suffice) with a lid
·Moist Leaves
·Worms, preferably red worms such as Eisenia foetida or Lumbricus rubellus

One of the first things you should do to start your school worm farm is purchase red worms. Red worms can be purchased from a number of online retailers or at most plant and/or pet stores. Next, wash out the container or bin that you are using. If you have a wooden bin, line the bottom of it with sturdy plastic such as a heavy trash bag or shower curtain. Mix the organic materials together and add the worms. It takes roughly 3-5 months for the worms to eat through the materials. At this time, you will notice very little materials and a hefty amount of compost. Once this happens, it’s time to harvest.

Harvesting means: do not add any food to the bin for two weeks. When two weeks has passed, simply move all of the worm bin contents to one side of the bin and remove any large pieces of undecomposed materials. Add fresh materials – leaves, fruits and vegetables, to the empty side of the bin. Over the next two weeks or so, the worms will begin to move to the side where the new materials are located, leaving their compost behind. All that is needed at this point is to remove the old compost and replace it with fresh materials. Cover the new side of the composting bin to encourage the worms to migrate to the new side.

Worm farm material is ready to use immediately or if you choose, you can store it for later use. Worm compost can be added directly into your potting soil or mixed in with your garden soil as a soil amendment. If you notice a worm or two in the compost, don’t be alarmed. This is fairly common. Worm compost use is not limited to outdoor gardening. You can also use worm compost in the tops of your indoor plants, as the odor is not offensive.

Heating Cables in Worm Beds

Michelle — Tue, 08 Dec 2009 17:23:47 +0000

If you want to continue worm growing and composting through the winter months, you might consider adding hot water pipes or heating cables to your worm beds. This will insulate the worm beds through the winter months to ensure proper digestion, ample casting production, and reproduction.

According to Vermico (vermiculture information & supplies resource), electric heating cables are thermostatically set for optimum temperature control. The heating cables in worm beds will maintain a consistent, ideal temperature of 72 degrees. The cables should be looped 4”-6” below the bedding surface in order for it to operate as an “underground sun.’’ The cables will heat the worm bed with gentle bottom heat.

A good cable system will have a built-in thermostat, which automatically activates the cable when the temperature drops below 74°F. The heating cable should plug directly into 110V outlets and use 42 watts/12 ft. Quality heating cables are designed to prevent shock danger in wet conditions. Protect heating cables by laying a wire mesh screen over them before covering with bedding. Heating cables work best for a 12 sq. ft. area (approx.). –www.vermico.com

How to Make a Worm Bed

If you are planning to create a worm composting system, you’re going to need a worm bed – and a good one! A worm bed is actually the most important part of a successful worm composting system. A worm bed can be made from either moist newspaper strips or moist leaves. It’s important to keep in mind that your newspaper or leaves should not be soaking wet. If you want to keep your composting worms happy and healthy, all you need to do is follow a few simple steps on how to build a worm bed and the system that holds it. Having some knowledge about composting will be helpful as well, so continue reading to learn about how worm composting works and the tools you need to be successful at it.

About Worm Composting

Worm composting is the process of using worms to recycle organic material and food scraps into vermicompost. Vermicompost, also called “worm compost,” is a very useful soil amendment. When worms consume food scraps, the scraps become compost as they pass though the worms body. The compost exits the worm’s body through its tail. The result is a perfectly powerful fertilizer that can be used to help grow plants to their maximum potential. The reason that the worm compost is such a powerful fertilizer is that worms eat nutrient packed fruit and vegetable scraps and in turn, their bodies turn the scraps into nutrient-rich compost.

To create the perfect worm compost, gather the following materials:

·Raw fruits and vegetables
·A shallow container (24″ X 18″ X 8″ should work) with a lid
·Moist Leaves or moist newspaper strips (for the worm bed)
·Worms, preferably red worms such as Eisenia foetida or Lumbricus rubellus

One of the first things you should do when worm composting is to purchase the red worms, if you have not already raised several hundred on your own. Red worms can be purchased from a number of online retailers or at most plant and/or pet stores. Next, wash out the container or bin that you are using. If you have a wooden bin, line the bottom of it with sturdy plastic such as a heavy trash bag or shower curtain. Mix the organic materials together and add the worms. It takes roughly 3-5 months for the worms to eat through the materials. At this time, you will notice very little materials and a hefty amount of compost. Once this happens, it’s time to harvest.

When you are ready to use your fresh worm compost, you can use several methods of extraction, but one method in particular seems to be the most effective. Dump the entire contents of the bin, including the worm bed, onto a large sheet of plastic and make several piles. Once exposed to the light, the worms will quickly bury themselves in the bottom of the compost within 2-3 minutes. After a few minutes, remove the top layer of compost, leaving the worms on the bottom. Once you have removed all of the worm compost, simply collect the worms and return them to the composting bin.

Worm composting material is ready to use immediately or if you choose, you can store it for later use. Worm compost can be added directly into your potting soil or mixed in with your garden soil as a soil amendment. If you notice a worm or two in the compost, don’t be alarmed. This is fairly common. Worm compost use is not limited to outdoor gardening. Because the odor is not offensive, you can also use worm compost in the tops of your indoor plants.

Source: Vermico, www.vermico.com, “Worm Bins & Supplies.”

Tiger Worm

Michelle — Mon, 07 Dec 2009 17:00:58 +0000

Tiger worm is another name for red worm, red wiggler or manure worm. These worms are commonly used for composting. They produce some of species richest castings and they also produce them at a rapid rate. Tiger worms have the ability to consume their own body weight in food each day. This means that because there is plenty to go around, the organic waste material that their bodies produce can also be used as a powerful fertilizer. The organic material that the tiger worm produces is commonly referred to as vermi-cast.
Tiger worms have a long life expectancy as well. Because they are not tasty to predators such as birds, they are free to live out their lives without the threat of being eaten alive.

Tiger worms are one of only a half dozen worm species (out of thousands) that are excellent for composting. They have yellow and maroon bands around the body, and they are surface feeders. In addition to producing large amounts of vermin-cast each day, these wiggly creatures also produce 60% of their body weight in leachate (urine) each day. When diluted 10:1, this liquid can be used as a powerful plant food.

About Composting

So what exactly is worm composting? In simple terms, worm composting is the process of using worms to recycle organic material and food scraps into a useful soil amendment called “vermicompost.” Vermicompost is also called “worm compost.” When worms consume food scraps, the scraps become compost as they pass though the worms body. The compost exits the worm’s body through its tail. The result is a perfectly powerful fertilizer that can be used to help grow plants to their maximum potential. The reason that the worm compost is such a powerful fertilizer is that worms eat nutrient packed fruit and vegetable scraps and in turn, their bodies turn the scraps into nutrient-rich compost.

To create the perfect worm compost you will need several items including:

·Raw fruits and vegetables
·A shallow container (24″ X 18″ X 8″ should suffice) with a lid
·Moist Leaves
·Worms, preferably tiger worms/red worms such as Eisenia foetida or Lumbricus rubellus

Worm composting material is ready to use immediately or if you choose, you can store it for later use. Worm compost can be added directly into your potting soil or mixed in with your garden soil as a soil amendment. If you notice a worm or two in the compost, don’t be alarmed. This is fairly common. Worm compost use is not limited to outdoor gardening. You can also use worm compost in the tops of your indoor plants, as the odor is not offensive.

Commercial Worm Farming

Michelle — Tue, 01 Dec 2009 16:55:39 +0000

Commercial worm farming can be a lucrative business — if you’re good at marketing and if you know how to create the ideal conditions for worms to reproduce. Commercial worm farmers typically sell red worms for composting. They also sell worm castings to use as a fertilizer, if you prefer not to create your own compost. Commercial worm farming is defined as the process of raising, selling, and shipping castings and worms to buyers. Commercial worm farmers can breed worms and produce castings or compost in a space as small as a garage or as large as an industrial warehouse. But no matter how big or small, the process is pretty much the same as it would be if the average Joe decided to take up worm farming.

The “science” behind worm composting is simple. When worms consume food scraps, the scraps become compost as they pass though the worms body. The compost exits the worm’s body through its tail. The result is a powerful fertilizer that can be used to help grow plants to their maximum potential. The reason that the worm compost is such a powerful fertilizer is that worms eat nutrient packed fruit and vegetable scraps and in turn, their bodies turn the scraps into nutrient-rich compost.

To be successful at worm farming, you will need several items:

·Raw fruits and vegetables
·A shallow container (24″ X 18″ X 8″ should suffice) with a lid
·Moist Leaves
·Worms, preferably red worms such as Eisenia foetida or Lumbricus rubellus

One of the first things you should do to begin he worm farm process is to purchase red worms, if you have not already raised several hundred on your own. Red worms can be purchased from a number of online retailers or at most plant and/or pet stores. Next, wash out the container or bin that you are using. If you have a wooden bin, line the bottom of it with sturdy plastic such as a heavy trash bag or shower curtain. Mix the organic materials together and add the worms. It takes roughly 3-5 months for the worms to eat through the materials. At this time, you will notice very little materials and a hefty amount of compost. Once this happens, it’s time to harvest.

Worm farm material is ready to use immediately or if you choose, you can store it for later use. Worm compost can be added directly into your potting soil or mixed in with your garden soil as a soil amendment. If you notice a worm or two in the compost, don’t be alarmed. This is fairly common. Worm compost use is not limited to outdoor gardening. Because the odor is not offensive, you can also use worm compost in the tops of your indoor plants.

How to Make a Worm Bin

Michelle — Fri, 27 Nov 2009 16:17:22 +0000

A worm bin is used for worm composting. Worm composting is the process of using worms to recycle organic material and food scraps into a useful soil amendment called “vermicompost.” Vermicompost is also called “worm compost.” When worms consume food scraps, the scraps become compost as they pass though the worms body. The compost exits the worm’s body through its tail. The result is a perfectly powerful fertilizer that can be used to help grow plants to their maximum potential. Worm compost is a powerful fertilizer mainly because worms eat nutrient packed fruit and vegetable scraps. The worm’s body then turns the scraps into nutrient-rich compost.

Worm bins also called “worm composters” vary in size based on the scale of your composting project. Some worm bins are “small scale” while others may be “large scale.” A small-scale worm bin may be homemade or purchased from a retailer. Small-scale worm bins are made of wood, plastic, metal and even Styrofoam. The preferred choices, however, are plastic or wood. Small-scale worm bins should always have holes in them to allow air to flow and for draining purposes. A small-scale worm bin is usually covered with a lid to prevent the worms from escaping.

Large-scale worm bins are just that – large worm bins. Besides size, a major difference between large scale and a small-scale worm bin is large scale bins are typically uncovered. The worms do not try to escape mainly because large-scale bins contain an overabundance of organic matter for worms to feed on. They won’t try to escape because they don’t have to go searching for food.

To create the perfect small-scale worm bin you will need several items including:

·Raw fruits and vegetables
·A shallow container (24″ X 18″ X 8″ should suffice) with a lid
·Moist Leaves
·Worms, preferably red worms such as Eisenia foetida or Lumbricus rubellus

One of the first things you should do when worm composting is to purchase the red worms, if you have not already raised several hundred on your own. Red worms can be purchased from a number of online retailers or at most plant and/or pet stores. Next, wash out the worm bin you are using. If you have a wooden bin, line the bottom of it with sturdy plastic such as a heavy trash bag or shower curtain. Mix the organic materials together and add the worms. It takes roughly 3-5 months for the worms to eat through the materials. At this time, you will notice very little materials and a hefty amount of compost. Once this happens, it’s time to harvest.

Harvesting means: do not add any food to the bin for two weeks. When two weeks has passed, simply move all of the worm bin contents to one side of the bin and remove any large pieces of undecomposed materials. Add fresh materials – leaves, fruits and vegetables, to the empty side of the bin. Over the next two weeks or so, the worms will begin to move to the side where the new materials are located, leaving their compost behind. All that is needed at this point is to remove the old compost and replace it with fresh materials. Cover the new side of the worm bin to encourage the worms to migrate to the new side.

When you are ready to use your fresh worm compost, you can use several methods of extraction, but one method in particular seems to be the most effective. Dump the entire contents of the worm bin onto a large sheet of plastic and make several piles. Once exposed to the light, the worms will quickly bury themselves in the bottom of the compost within 2-3 minutes. After a few minutes, remove the top layer of compost, leaving the worms on the bottom. Once you have removed all of the worm compost, simply collect the worms and return them to the bin.

Grubs and Composting

Michelle — Wed, 18 Nov 2009 14:00:50 +0000

Of course you don’t want grubs in your compost, but you also want to avoid killing the beneficial red worms that create the compost. How can you get rid of grub worms without doing away with your productive red worms? For starters, you might be ok with letting nature take it’s course. Do not treat your compost with chemicals that will kill natural enemies such as ants. These natural predators may help control the problem. Next, you can keep the compost moist enough to keep your red worms alive, but dry enough to repel grub worms. Grub worms prefer very wet areas, while red worms prefer “moist” (not wet) soil.

If you are purchasing worms from a retailer, chances are they will not have grubs in them. If you plan to find your own worms, then you should examine the soil and the worms for grubs. Simply sift through the worms and soil to look for larvae. Continue reading to learn more about grubs, what they look like, and how to determine if you have a infestation. You will also find more information below about composting and how to create the perfect compost.

About Grubs

Also known as “white grubs,” grub worms are the larvae of scarab beetles. Grub worms are either white or gray, with a dark posterior abdomen and a brown head. Their longish wormlike bodies curl into C-shape. If you see a grub worm or several grub worms writhing around on your lawn, don’t panic. Grub worms are harmless to humans.

Numerous species of grub worms currently exist all over the United States in most northern and midwestern states, as well as in Florida. Just a few common grubs include the Japanese beetle (Popillia japonica), May-June beetle (Phyllophaga fusca), false Japanese beetle (Strigoderma arbicola), northern masked chafer (Cyclocephala borealis), green June beetle (Cotinus nitida), European chafer (Rhizotrogus majalis), black turfgrass atanius (Ataenius spretulus), southern masked chafer (Cyclocephala lurida), and the Asiatic garden beetle (Maladera castanea).

Grub worms feed on plants and the roots of turf grasses and the adult beetles feed on trees, shrubs, and other foliage. While grub worms are harmless to humans, they can be devastating to crops mainly because they feed on crop roots. Grub worms have three larval stages, with the third being the most devastating to crops. They hatch from eggs laid in soil and they also pupate in the soil. Fortunately, the adults are not considered turf pests.

Its easy to tell whether you have a grub worm infestation or not by the condition of your grass and the types of animals foraging around in your lawn or in your crops. When grub worms feed on grass roots, the grass turns yellow and dies. You will notice scattered brown patches of grass and the grass will pull up very easily. If you notice an increase in birds, moles, raccoons, and depending on what part of the country you live in, armadillos, this may be because you have a white grub infestation. If you notice wasps in large numbers hovering over your grass, this may also be a sign of a white grub infestation.

Before attempting to get rid of grub worms, you can confirm that you have an infestation by digging up the top three to four inches of soil, roots, and thatch. Simply sift through the materials and look for the larvae. If you find them—it’s time to explore treatment options.

About Composting

To create the perfect small-scale worm compost you will need several items including:

·Raw fruits and vegetables
·A shallow container (24″ X 18″ X 8″ should suffice) with a lid
·Moist Leaves
·Worms, preferably red worms such as Eisenia foetida or Lumbricus rubellus

One of the first things you should do when worm composting is to purchase the red worms, if you have not already raised several hundred on your own. Red worms can be purchased from a number of online retailers or at most plant and/or pet stores. Next, wash out the worm composter you are using. If you have a wooden composter, line the bottom of it with sturdy plastic such as a heavy trash bag or shower curtain. Mix the organic materials together and add the worms. It takes roughly 3-5 months for the worms to eat through the materials. At this time, you will notice very little materials and a hefty amount of compost. Once this happens, it’s time to harvest.

Harvesting means: do not add any food to the bin for two weeks. When two weeks has passed, simply move all of the worm bin contents to one side of the bin and remove any large pieces of undecomposed materials. Add fresh materials – leaves, fruits and vegetables, to the empty side of the bin. Over the next two weeks or so, the worms will begin to move to the side where the new materials are located, leaving their compost behind. All that is needed at this point is to remove the old compost and replace it with fresh materials. Cover the new side of the worm composter to encourage the worms to migrate to the new side.

When you are ready to use your fresh worm compost, you can use several methods of extraction, but one method in particular seems to be the most effective. Dump the entire contents of the worm composter onto a large sheet of plastic and make several piles. Once exposed to the light, the worms will quickly bury themselves in the bottom of the compost within 2-3 minutes. After a few minutes, remove the top layer of compost, leaving the worms on the bottom. Once you have removed all of the worm compost, simply collect the worms and return them to the composter.

When to Harvest Compost Worms

Michelle — Wed, 14 Oct 2009 21:56:05 +0000

In order to be successful at worm composting, you must use the best kind of worms you can find, use the correct materials to build an efficient composting system, and you should also know exactly when to harvest compost worms.

In addition to red worms, – the best kind of worms to use for composting, to begin composting with worms, you will need:

·Raw fruits and vegetables
·A shallow container (24″ X 18″ X 8″ should suffice) with a lid
·Moist Leaves

To begin composting with worms, you should purchase a hefty amount of red worms. Two pounds, which is equal to around 2,000 worms, should be plenty. Red worms can be purchased from a number of online retailers or at most plant and pet stores. Next, wash out the container or bin that you are using. If you have a wooden bin, line the bottom of it with sturdy plastic such as a heavy trash bag or shower curtain. Mix the organic materials together and add the worms. It takes roughly 3-5 months for the worms to eat through the materials. At this time, you will notice very little materials and a hefty amount of compost. Once this happens, it’s time to harvest.

Worm Composting and Compost Defined

Composting with worms or “worm composting,” is the process of using worms to recycle organic material and food scraps into a useful soil amendment called “vermicompost.” Vermicompost is also called “worm compost.” As worms consume food scraps, the material becomes compost as it passes though the worms body and exits through its tail. The result is a powerful fertilizer that can be used to help grow plants to their maximum potential. Worm compost is such a powerful fertilizer mainly because worms tend to eat nutrient packed fruit and vegetable scraps and their bodies turn the scraps into nutrient-rich compost.

How to Build a Worm Bed

Michelle — Mon, 05 Oct 2009 14:00:54 +0000

About Worm Composting

To create the perfect worm compost, gather the following materials:

When you are ready to use your fresh worm compost, you can use several methods of extraction, but one method in particular seems to be the most effective. Dump the entire contents of the bin, including the worm bed, onto a large sheet of plastic and make several piles. Once exposed to the light, the worms will quickly bury themselves in the bottom of the compost within 2-3 minutes. After a few minutes, remove the top layer of compost, leaving the worms on the bottom. Once you have removed all of the worm compost, simply collect the worms and return them to the composting bin.