• Increased productivity by 20-40 percent.
• Less insects and pests attack on crops after consistent use of vermicast
• Less weed infestation as compared to farmyard manure
• Reduced cost of cultivation ranging from 40-50 percent.
• Significantly more tillering, flowering and grain setting
• Substitute chemical inputs ranging from 30-100 percent.
• Additional price gain from the sale of farm produce
• Better taste of food
• Bigger size of farm produce
• Cultivation became possible in saline-alkaline conditions
• Less irrigation water requirement

Benefits in Landscapes, Gardens and Nurseries

• It eliminates the need for weeding operations.
• It improves germination of seeds in nurseries.
• It improves the quality and appearance.
• It increases the shelf life of flowers.
• It reduces the bulk (as compared to FYM).
• It reduces water consumption.

Benefits in Soil and Water Conservation

• Enables reclamation of waste lands for plantation & cultivation.
• It helps in stabilization of earthen structures through better vegetative growth.
• It promotes grass production in degraded open grasslands.

Benefits in Plantation of Trees

• Enables early regeneration of partly degraded forest areas.
• Helps in early stabilization of transplants.
• Increases overall vegetation in hilly regions.

So what exactly is vermiculture?

Vermiculture is the process of using worms to recycle organic material and food scraps into a useful soil amendment called “vermicompost.” As worms consume food scraps, the material becomes compost as it passes though the worms body and exits through its tail. The result is a powerful fertilizer that can be used to help grow plants to their maximum potential. Worm compost is such a powerful fertilizer mainly because worms tend to eat nutrient packed fruit and vegetable scraps and their bodies turn the scraps into nutrient-rich compost.

To begin the vermiculture process, you will need several items including:

·Raw fruits and vegetables
·A shallow container (24″ X 18″ X 8″ should suffice) with a lid (make sure there are holes in the bottom
·Moist Leaves
· Worms: red worms, such as Eisenia foetida or
other surface feeding worms. Do not use earthworms. They will not survive in a worm composting system

After (not before) your worm bed is complete, purchase your red worms. Two pounds, which is equal to around 2,000 worms, should suffice. Red worms can be purchased from a number of online retailers or at most plant and pet stores. To start the worm bin, wash out the container or bin that you are using. Make sure there are holes in the bottom for water to drain. If the liquid doesn’t drain, a worm bin will most likely go anaerobic and the worms may possibly drown. Managing moisture in the bin is important.

Mix the organic materials together and add the worms. Worms should be fed periodically — not all at once. Too much food at one time will attract nuisance bugs, maybe animals too, and will probably start to smell after a short while. There are different methods for managing bins to keep pests like fruit flies under control. Temperature control is important. Heat will destroy your worms. Freezing cold will kill your worms, but the egg cases will survive. A plastic bin should never be put in the sun.

It takes roughly 3-5 months for the worms to eat through the materials. At this time, you will notice very little materials and a hefty amount of compost. Once this happens, it’s time to harvest.

Harvesting means — do not add any food to the bin for two weeks. When two weeks has passed, simply move all of the worm bin contents to one side of the bin and remove any large pieces of undecomposed materials. Add fresh materials – leaves, fruits and vegetables, to the empty side of the bin. Over the next two weeks or so, the worms will begin to move to the side where the new materials are located, leaving their compost behind. All that is needed at this point is to remove the old compost and replace it with fresh materials. Cover the new side of the composting bin to encourage the worms to migrate to the new side.

When you are ready to use your fresh worm compost, you can use several methods of extraction, but one method in particular seems to be the most effective. Dump the entire contents of the bin onto a large sheet of plastic and make several piles. Once exposed to the light, the worms will quickly bury themselves in the bottom of the compost within 2-3 minutes. After a few minutes, remove the top layer of compost, leaving the worms on the bottom. Once you have removed all of the worm compost, simply collect the worms and return them to the composting bin.

Worm compost material is ready to use immediately or if you choose, you can store it for later use. Worm compost can be added directly into your potting soil or mixed in with your garden soil as a soil amendment. If you notice a worm or two in the compost, don’t be alarmed. This is fairly common. Worm compost use is not limited to outdoor gardening. You can also use worm compost in the tops of your indoor plants. And no need to worry, the odor is not offensive.

Want more vermiculture tips? Visit: wormwoman.com.

Magic Worm, Bedding offers the following features that will make raising worms or composting easier.

-Color darkens worms so they are closer to natural fish food colors.

-The spongy, fluffy structure of the bedding is maintained because it is made of millions of tiny fibers that also work to toughen and condition worms so they will live longer on the hook and catch more fish.

-When the bedding becomes black, it is full of worm castings and needs to be replaced. This natural humus may be used as an excellent potting soil.

Magic Worm Bedding is available in 24 oz.-72 oz. bags for smaller projects. For larges projects, the bedding is available in 3-25 lb. Bags. Other Magic Worm Bedding products include Brown Bear Worm Bedding and Buss Bed-ding. Please visit the official Magic Products website at www.magicproducts.comfor purchasing details.

About Raising Worms

The process for raising worms is much like the process for worm composting. The same materials used for composting worms are the same for raising worms. The reasons for using these materials are the same in both cases as well. The only difference between raising worms and composting worms using the same method is that when raising worms you will not have to “turn” your worm systems. When composting, it is essential to turn your worm systems to encourage aeration.

Worms need several things in order to survive. They need: darkness, food, moisture, oxygen, and warmth. So, to begin the process of raising healthy (and happy) worms, you will need:

·Raw fruits and vegetables
·A shallow container with a high surface area to volume ratio (a Rubbermaid tub is an excellent option)
·Moist leaves, shredded cardboard, paper (called “bedding”)
·Earthworms

Earthworms can be purchased from a number of online retailers or at most plant and/or pet stores. Once you have your earthworms in hand, wash out the container or bin that you are using. If you have a wooden bin, line the bottom of it with sturdy plastic such as a heavy trash bag or shower curtain. Mix the organic materials together and add the worms. You will notice after several weeks that the worms have eaten through the materials. This means it is time to add more food. This is also a good time to make sure that the leaves or “bedding” is still moist. A good way to measure moisture is with the sponge test. If the bedding feels like a wrung out sponge, then it is ok. If it is not, it is time to add water. It is important not to add too much water because too much can interfere with oxygen. So, again, use the wrung out sponge as a measuring tool.

Next, it is important to keep temperatures in the ideal breeding range and to keep the bin in a dark area. Ideal breeding temperatures range from around 77 degrees Fahrenheit to 86 degrees Fahrenheit (max). Use a thermometer to keep track. Worms prefer the darkness, which is why you will rarely find hoards of worms wriggling around in the sunlight. Another reason is that the sunlight dries the worm’s skin out. Worms breathe through their skin, so they need moisture to survive. There are several ways to keep the worms abode dark. You can keep your system in a very low light area, you can use opaque bins, and you can also use a large amount of bedding to block out excessive amounts of light.

If you would like to keep a close eye on your worms, meaning you would like to observe them for extended periods of time, you can set up a dark room. Red lights do not bother worms, so a dark room is the ideal space for those interested in long periods of observation. Earthworms may be purchased at just about any pet or plant store, at bait and tackle stores, and even at retailers such as Wal-Mart. Just look in the sporting goods section in the refrigerated cases. Good luck!

Worm castings can be used safely and they can even double as an insect and disease repellant by controlling plant pathogens and root-eating nematodes. In addition to being safe for humans to handle, worm castings won’t burn tender plant roots, and unlike other fertilizers which can emit a pungent or chemical-like odor, worm castings emit a rich earthy smell.

So, how do you create your own worm castings? You can create your own worm farm. Follow the link to find out how. But first, continue reading to find out the advantages of creating your own worm farm, followed by tips on purchasing wholesale worm castings.

The Advantages of Creating Your Own Worm Farm

By creating your own worm farm (using red worms), you may use it to recycle food waste such as fruit and vegetables, hair trimmings, eggshells, pizza boxes and other cardboard paper. Your worms will eat them all, but be sure to shred and soak the boxes first because worms do not have teeth. For the best and most nutritious worm castings, however, feed your worms a chemical-free mixture of shredded leaves and manure (animal and poultry, but not human). Finally, remove any worm eggs from the mix and you’ll end up with castings that look, feel and smell just like black topsoil.

You can even use the castings to make tea — for your plants! Apply the tea to the surfaces of the leaves and it will imbue the plant with many of its own natural microbes that are lost to attack from pathogenic organisms. A suggested ratio for use around the house and garden is 1:5 of undiluted tea to water. Pour this solution into a hand sprayer and use it about once per week, depending on the plants. Experiment (it’s not going to hurt them) and find out what’s best for your garden.

How to Purchase Wholesale Worm Castings

Purchasing wholesale worm castings is easy. All you have to do is visit your local nursery or home and garden store. It’s also easy to purchase castings online. Although you will have to pay a shipping fee, many online retailers offer rock bottom prices and Internet only specials, which will offset any shipping costs. To find worm castings wholesalers online, simply type “wholesale worm castings” into your favorite search engine and follow the results. Good luck

However, if you are creating a compost pile, the last thing you want is to attract a lot of pests. Many pests are unhealthy for humans and may pose a health risk. Even if no health risk exists, pests will undoubtedly make the job of maintaining a compost pile more difficult. They are also quite annoying.

Following are a few of the more common compost pests that result from an improperly constructed pile, a pile that is not turned properly, or a pile that has thin edges creating a space for pests to congregate and breed. Pests can be treated with a variety of biological treatments such as Bacillus thuringiensis (or Bt), chemicals or natural treatments that can be found at your local garden center.

Stable Flies
Stable Flies look like houseflies. They are gray with black stripes and spots; however, they have a beak that is not present on the common housefly. This beak is used in a similar fashion as that of the mosquito. It is used to feed on the blood of humans and other animals making it a rather annoying and dangerous pest. Diseases can be transferred in a similar fashion to that of the mosquito. These flies feed most aggressively in the mornings and evenings.

House Flies
House Flies are also gray with black stripes on their head. They feed on liquid food, which is why they are often found in or near compost piles. Their mouth acts like a sponge to take in their food. Houseflies are annoying and breed frequently but they are harmless.

Green June Beetles
Green June Beetles are metallic in appearance and green along with a bit of yellow on their wings. They fly a lot and make a very loud buzzing sound when they are airborne, which is most often during the day when the sun is shining. They are known for running into whatever is in their path, including humans. Green June Beetles lay their eggs in organic waste. This is one of the reasons they are attracted to compost piles. It is the perfect breeding ground for the beetle. Beetle larvae are often confused for worms as they grow up to two inches long before they pupate. They can also reach up to one-half inch in diameter making them a rather difficult to miss.

To begin the vermicomposting process, you will need several items including:

·Raw fruits and vegetables
·A shallow container (24″ X 18″ X 8″ should suffice) with a lid (make sure there are holes in the bottom
·Moist Leaves
· Worms: red worms, such as Eisenia foetida or
other surface feeding worms. Do not use earth worms. They will not survive in a worm composting system

After (not before) your worm bed is complete, purchase your red worms. Two pounds, which is equal to around 2,000 worms, should suffice. Red worms can be purchased from a number of online retailers or at most plant and pet stores. To start the worm bin, wash out the container or bin that you are using. Make sure there are holes in the bottom for water to drain. If the liquid doesn’t drain, a worm bin will most likely go anaerobic and the worms may possibly drown. Managing moisture in the bin is important.

Mix the organic materials together and add the worms. Worms should be fed periodically — not all at once. Too much food at one time will attract nuisance bugs, maybe animals too, and will probably start to smell after a short while. There are different methods for managing bins to keep pests like fruit flies under control. Temperature control is important. Heat will destroy your worms. Freezing cold will kill your worms, but the egg cases will survive. A plastic bin should never be put in the sun.

It takes roughly 3-5 months for the worms to eat through the materials. At this time, you will notice very little materials and a hefty amount of compost. Once this happens, it’s time to harvest.

Harvesting means — do not add any food to the bin for two weeks. When two weeks has passed, simply move all of the worm bin contents to one side of the bin and remove any large pieces of undecomposed materials. Add fresh materials – leaves, fruits and vegetables, to the empty side of the bin. Over the next two weeks or so, the worms will begin to move to the side where the new materials are located, leaving their compost behind. All that is needed at this point is to remove the old compost and replace it with fresh materials. Cover the new side of the composting bin to encourage the worms to migrate to the new side.

When you are ready to use your fresh worm compost, you can use several methods of extraction, but one method in particular seems to be the most effective. Dump the entire contents of the bin onto a large sheet of plastic and make several piles. Once exposed to the light, the worms will quickly bury themselves in the bottom of the compost within 2-3 minutes. After a few minutes, remove the top layer of compost, leaving the worms on the bottom. Once you have removed all of the worm compost, simply collect the worms and return them to the composting bin.

Worm compost material is ready to use immediately or if you choose, you can store it for later use. Worm compost can be added directly into your potting soil or mixed in with your garden soil as a soil amendment. If you notice a worm or two in the compost, don’t be alarmed. This is fairly common. Worm compost use is not limited to outdoor gardening. You can also use worm compost in the tops of your indoor plants. And don’t worry, the odor is not offensive.

Want more vermicomposting tips? Visit: wormwoman.com.

“Worm farming” is actually a process of using worms to recycle organic material and food scraps into a useful soil amendment called vermicompost. Vermicompost is also called “worm compost.” Other terms for worm farm include “worm composting” or “vermiculture.”

When worms consume food scraps, the scraps become compost as they pass though the worms body. The compost exits the worm’s body through its tail. The result is a powerful fertilizer that can be used to help grow plants to their maximum potential. The reason that the worm compost is such a powerful fertilizer is that worms eat nutrient packed fruit and vegetable scraps and in turn, their bodies turn the scraps into nutrient-rich compost.

To start your worm farm, you will need several items:

·Raw fruits and vegetables
·A shallow container (24″ X 18″ X 8″ should suffice) with a lid
·Moist Leaves
·Worms, preferably red worms such as Eisenia foetida or Lumbricus rubellus

One of the first things you should do to start your school worm farm is purchase red worms. Red worms can be purchased from a number of online retailers or at most plant and/or pet stores. Next, wash out the container or bin that you are using. If you have a wooden bin, line the bottom of it with sturdy plastic such as a heavy trash bag or shower curtain. Mix the organic materials together and add the worms. It takes roughly 3-5 months for the worms to eat through the materials. At this time, you will notice very little materials and a hefty amount of compost. Once this happens, it’s time to harvest.

Harvesting means: do not add any food to the bin for two weeks. When two weeks has passed, simply move all of the worm bin contents to one side of the bin and remove any large pieces of undecomposed materials. Add fresh materials – leaves, fruits and vegetables, to the empty side of the bin. Over the next two weeks or so, the worms will begin to move to the side where the new materials are located, leaving their compost behind. All that is needed at this point is to remove the old compost and replace it with fresh materials. Cover the new side of the composting bin to encourage the worms to migrate to the new side.

When you are ready to use your fresh worm compost, you can use several methods of extraction, but one method in particular seems to be the most effective. Dump the entire contents of the bin onto a large sheet of plastic and make several piles. Once exposed to the light, the worms will quickly bury themselves in the bottom of the compost within 2-3 minutes. After a few minutes, remove the top layer of compost, leaving the worms on the bottom. Once you have removed all of the worm compost, simply collect the worms and return them to the composting bin.

Worm farm material is ready to use immediately or if you choose, you can store it for later use. Worm compost can be added directly into your potting soil or mixed in with your garden soil as a soil amendment. If you notice a worm or two in the compost, don’t be alarmed. This is fairly common. Worm compost use is not limited to outdoor gardening. You can also use worm compost in the tops of your indoor plants, as the odor is not offensive.

According to Vermico (vermiculture information & supplies resource), electric heating cables are thermostatically set for optimum temperature control. The heating cables in worm beds will maintain a consistent, ideal temperature of 72 degrees. The cables should be looped 4”-6” below the bedding surface in order for it to operate as an “underground sun.’’ The cables will heat the worm bed with gentle bottom heat.

A good cable system will have a built-in thermostat, which automatically activates the cable when the temperature drops below 74°F. The heating cable should plug directly into 110V outlets and use 42 watts/12 ft. Quality heating cables are designed to prevent shock danger in wet conditions. Protect heating cables by laying a wire mesh screen over them before covering with bedding. Heating cables work best for a 12 sq. ft. area (approx.). –www.vermico.com

How to Make a Worm Bed

If you are planning to create a worm composting system, you’re going to need a worm bed – and a good one! A worm bed is actually the most important part of a successful worm composting system. A worm bed can be made from either moist newspaper strips or moist leaves. It’s important to keep in mind that your newspaper or leaves should not be soaking wet. If you want to keep your composting worms happy and healthy, all you need to do is follow a few simple steps on how to build a worm bed and the system that holds it. Having some knowledge about composting will be helpful as well, so continue reading to learn about how worm composting works and the tools you need to be successful at it.

About Worm Composting

Worm composting is the process of using worms to recycle organic material and food scraps into vermicompost. Vermicompost, also called “worm compost,” is a very useful soil amendment. When worms consume food scraps, the scraps become compost as they pass though the worms body. The compost exits the worm’s body through its tail. The result is a perfectly powerful fertilizer that can be used to help grow plants to their maximum potential. The reason that the worm compost is such a powerful fertilizer is that worms eat nutrient packed fruit and vegetable scraps and in turn, their bodies turn the scraps into nutrient-rich compost.

To create the perfect worm compost, gather the following materials:

·Raw fruits and vegetables
·A shallow container (24″ X 18″ X 8″ should work) with a lid
·Moist Leaves or moist newspaper strips (for the worm bed)
·Worms, preferably red worms such as Eisenia foetida or Lumbricus rubellus

One of the first things you should do when worm composting is to purchase the red worms, if you have not already raised several hundred on your own. Red worms can be purchased from a number of online retailers or at most plant and/or pet stores. Next, wash out the container or bin that you are using. If you have a wooden bin, line the bottom of it with sturdy plastic such as a heavy trash bag or shower curtain. Mix the organic materials together and add the worms. It takes roughly 3-5 months for the worms to eat through the materials. At this time, you will notice very little materials and a hefty amount of compost. Once this happens, it’s time to harvest.

Harvesting means: do not add any food to the bin for two weeks. When two weeks has passed, simply move all of the worm bin contents to one side of the bin and remove any large pieces of undecomposed materials. Add fresh materials – leaves, fruits and vegetables, to the empty side of the bin. Over the next two weeks or so, the worms will begin to move to the side where the new materials are located, leaving their compost behind. All that is needed at this point is to remove the old compost and replace it with fresh materials. Cover the new side of the composting bin to encourage the worms to migrate to the new side.

When you are ready to use your fresh worm compost, you can use several methods of extraction, but one method in particular seems to be the most effective. Dump the entire contents of the bin, including the worm bed, onto a large sheet of plastic and make several piles. Once exposed to the light, the worms will quickly bury themselves in the bottom of the compost within 2-3 minutes. After a few minutes, remove the top layer of compost, leaving the worms on the bottom. Once you have removed all of the worm compost, simply collect the worms and return them to the composting bin.

Worm composting material is ready to use immediately or if you choose, you can store it for later use. Worm compost can be added directly into your potting soil or mixed in with your garden soil as a soil amendment. If you notice a worm or two in the compost, don’t be alarmed. This is fairly common. Worm compost use is not limited to outdoor gardening. Because the odor is not offensive, you can also use worm compost in the tops of your indoor plants.

Source: Vermico, www.vermico.com, “Worm Bins & Supplies.”

Tiger worms are one of only a half dozen worm species (out of thousands) that are excellent for composting. They have yellow and maroon bands around the body, and they are surface feeders. In addition to producing large amounts of vermin-cast each day, these wiggly creatures also produce 60% of their body weight in leachate (urine) each day. When diluted 10:1, this liquid can be used as a powerful plant food.

About Composting

So what exactly is worm composting? In simple terms, worm composting is the process of using worms to recycle organic material and food scraps into a useful soil amendment called “vermicompost.” Vermicompost is also called “worm compost.” When worms consume food scraps, the scraps become compost as they pass though the worms body. The compost exits the worm’s body through its tail. The result is a perfectly powerful fertilizer that can be used to help grow plants to their maximum potential. The reason that the worm compost is such a powerful fertilizer is that worms eat nutrient packed fruit and vegetable scraps and in turn, their bodies turn the scraps into nutrient-rich compost.

To create the perfect worm compost you will need several items including:

·Raw fruits and vegetables
·A shallow container (24″ X 18″ X 8″ should suffice) with a lid
·Moist Leaves
·Worms, preferably tiger worms/red worms such as Eisenia foetida or Lumbricus rubellus

One of the first things you should do when worm composting is to purchase the red worms, if you have not already raised several hundred on your own. Red worms can be purchased from a number of online retailers or at most plant and/or pet stores. Next, wash out the container or bin that you are using. If you have a wooden bin, line the bottom of it with sturdy plastic such as a heavy trash bag or shower curtain. Mix the organic materials together and add the worms. It takes roughly 3-5 months for the worms to eat through the materials. At this time, you will notice very little materials and a hefty amount of compost. Once this happens, it’s time to harvest.

Harvesting means: do not add any food to the bin for two weeks. When two weeks has passed, simply move all of the worm bin contents to one side of the bin and remove any large pieces of undecomposed materials. Add fresh materials – leaves, fruits and vegetables, to the empty side of the bin. Over the next two weeks or so, the worms will begin to move to the side where the new materials are located, leaving their compost behind. All that is needed at this point is to remove the old compost and replace it with fresh materials. Cover the new side of the composting bin to encourage the worms to migrate to the new side.

When you are ready to use your fresh worm compost, you can use several methods of extraction, but one method in particular seems to be the most effective. Dump the entire contents of the bin onto a large sheet of plastic and make several piles. Once exposed to the light, the worms will quickly bury themselves in the bottom of the compost within 2-3 minutes. After a few minutes, remove the top layer of compost, leaving the worms on the bottom. Once you have removed all of the worm compost, simply collect the worms and return them to the composting bin.

Worm composting material is ready to use immediately or if you choose, you can store it for later use. Worm compost can be added directly into your potting soil or mixed in with your garden soil as a soil amendment. If you notice a worm or two in the compost, don’t be alarmed. This is fairly common. Worm compost use is not limited to outdoor gardening. You can also use worm compost in the tops of your indoor plants, as the odor is not offensive.

The “science” behind worm composting is simple. When worms consume food scraps, the scraps become compost as they pass though the worms body. The compost exits the worm’s body through its tail. The result is a powerful fertilizer that can be used to help grow plants to their maximum potential. The reason that the worm compost is such a powerful fertilizer is that worms eat nutrient packed fruit and vegetable scraps and in turn, their bodies turn the scraps into nutrient-rich compost.

To be successful at worm farming, you will need several items:

·Raw fruits and vegetables
·A shallow container (24″ X 18″ X 8″ should suffice) with a lid
·Moist Leaves
·Worms, preferably red worms such as Eisenia foetida or Lumbricus rubellus

One of the first things you should do to begin he worm farm process is to purchase red worms, if you have not already raised several hundred on your own. Red worms can be purchased from a number of online retailers or at most plant and/or pet stores. Next, wash out the container or bin that you are using. If you have a wooden bin, line the bottom of it with sturdy plastic such as a heavy trash bag or shower curtain. Mix the organic materials together and add the worms. It takes roughly 3-5 months for the worms to eat through the materials. At this time, you will notice very little materials and a hefty amount of compost. Once this happens, it’s time to harvest.

Harvesting means: do not add any food to the bin for two weeks. When two weeks has passed, simply move all of the worm bin contents to one side of the bin and remove any large pieces of undecomposed materials. Add fresh materials – leaves, fruits and vegetables, to the empty side of the bin. Over the next two weeks or so, the worms will begin to move to the side where the new materials are located, leaving their compost behind. All that is needed at this point is to remove the old compost and replace it with fresh materials. Cover the new side of the composting bin to encourage the worms to migrate to the new side.

When you are ready to use your fresh worm compost, you can use several methods of extraction, but one method in particular seems to be the most effective. Dump the entire contents of the bin onto a large sheet of plastic and make several piles. Once exposed to the light, the worms will quickly bury themselves in the bottom of the compost within 2-3 minutes. After a few minutes, remove the top layer of compost, leaving the worms on the bottom. Once you have removed all of the worm compost, simply collect the worms and return them to the composting bin. And yes, red worms will reproduce at a rapid pace in compost, so you will always have plenty of worms to create castings and compost.

Worm farm material is ready to use immediately or if you choose, you can store it for later use. Worm compost can be added directly into your potting soil or mixed in with your garden soil as a soil amendment. If you notice a worm or two in the compost, don’t be alarmed. This is fairly common. Worm compost use is not limited to outdoor gardening. Because the odor is not offensive, you can also use worm compost in the tops of your indoor plants.

Worm bins also called “worm composters” vary in size based on the scale of your composting project. Some worm bins are “small scale” while others may be “large scale.” A small-scale worm bin may be homemade or purchased from a retailer. Small-scale worm bins are made of wood, plastic, metal and even Styrofoam. The preferred choices, however, are plastic or wood. Small-scale worm bins should always have holes in them to allow air to flow and for draining purposes. A small-scale worm bin is usually covered with a lid to prevent the worms from escaping.

Large-scale worm bins are just that – large worm bins. Besides size, a major difference between large scale and a small-scale worm bin is large scale bins are typically uncovered. The worms do not try to escape mainly because large-scale bins contain an overabundance of organic matter for worms to feed on. They won’t try to escape because they don’t have to go searching for food.

To create the perfect small-scale worm bin you will need several items including:

·Raw fruits and vegetables
·A shallow container (24″ X 18″ X 8″ should suffice) with a lid
·Moist Leaves
·Worms, preferably red worms such as Eisenia foetida or Lumbricus rubellus

One of the first things you should do when worm composting is to purchase the red worms, if you have not already raised several hundred on your own. Red worms can be purchased from a number of online retailers or at most plant and/or pet stores. Next, wash out the worm bin you are using. If you have a wooden bin, line the bottom of it with sturdy plastic such as a heavy trash bag or shower curtain. Mix the organic materials together and add the worms. It takes roughly 3-5 months for the worms to eat through the materials. At this time, you will notice very little materials and a hefty amount of compost. Once this happens, it’s time to harvest.

Harvesting means: do not add any food to the bin for two weeks. When two weeks has passed, simply move all of the worm bin contents to one side of the bin and remove any large pieces of undecomposed materials. Add fresh materials – leaves, fruits and vegetables, to the empty side of the bin. Over the next two weeks or so, the worms will begin to move to the side where the new materials are located, leaving their compost behind. All that is needed at this point is to remove the old compost and replace it with fresh materials. Cover the new side of the worm bin to encourage the worms to migrate to the new side.

When you are ready to use your fresh worm compost, you can use several methods of extraction, but one method in particular seems to be the most effective. Dump the entire contents of the worm bin onto a large sheet of plastic and make several piles. Once exposed to the light, the worms will quickly bury themselves in the bottom of the compost within 2-3 minutes. After a few minutes, remove the top layer of compost, leaving the worms on the bottom. Once you have removed all of the worm compost, simply collect the worms and return them to the bin.

Worm composting material is ready to use immediately or if you choose, you can store it for later use. Worm compost can be added directly into your potting soil or mixed in with your garden soil as a soil amendment. If you notice a worm or two in the compost, don’t be alarmed. This is fairly common. Worm compost use is not limited to outdoor gardening. Because the odor is not offensive, you can also use worm compost in the tops of indoor plants.