Magic Worm, Bedding offers the following features that will make raising worms or composting easier.

-Color darkens worms so they are closer to natural fish food colors.

-The spongy, fluffy structure of the bedding is maintained because it is made of millions of tiny fibers that also work to toughen and condition worms so they will live longer on the hook and catch more fish.

-When the bedding becomes black, it is full of worm castings and needs to be replaced. This natural humus may be used as an excellent potting soil.

Magic Worm Bedding is available in 24 oz.-72 oz. bags for smaller projects. For larges projects, the bedding is available in 3-25 lb. Bags. Other Magic Worm Bedding products include Brown Bear Worm Bedding and Buss Bed-ding. Please visit the official Magic Products website at www.magicproducts.comfor purchasing details.

About Raising Worms

The process for raising worms is much like the process for worm composting. The same materials used for composting worms are the same for raising worms. The reasons for using these materials are the same in both cases as well. The only difference between raising worms and composting worms using the same method is that when raising worms you will not have to “turn” your worm systems. When composting, it is essential to turn your worm systems to encourage aeration.

Worms need several things in order to survive. They need: darkness, food, moisture, oxygen, and warmth. So, to begin the process of raising healthy (and happy) worms, you will need:

·Raw fruits and vegetables
·A shallow container with a high surface area to volume ratio (a Rubbermaid tub is an excellent option)
·Moist leaves, shredded cardboard, paper (called “bedding”)
·Earthworms

Earthworms can be purchased from a number of online retailers or at most plant and/or pet stores. Once you have your earthworms in hand, wash out the container or bin that you are using. If you have a wooden bin, line the bottom of it with sturdy plastic such as a heavy trash bag or shower curtain. Mix the organic materials together and add the worms. You will notice after several weeks that the worms have eaten through the materials. This means it is time to add more food. This is also a good time to make sure that the leaves or “bedding” is still moist. A good way to measure moisture is with the sponge test. If the bedding feels like a wrung out sponge, then it is ok. If it is not, it is time to add water. It is important not to add too much water because too much can interfere with oxygen. So, again, use the wrung out sponge as a measuring tool.

Next, it is important to keep temperatures in the ideal breeding range and to keep the bin in a dark area. Ideal breeding temperatures range from around 77 degrees Fahrenheit to 86 degrees Fahrenheit (max). Use a thermometer to keep track. Worms prefer the darkness, which is why you will rarely find hoards of worms wriggling around in the sunlight. Another reason is that the sunlight dries the worm’s skin out. Worms breathe through their skin, so they need moisture to survive. There are several ways to keep the worms abode dark. You can keep your system in a very low light area, you can use opaque bins, and you can also use a large amount of bedding to block out excessive amounts of light.

If you would like to keep a close eye on your worms, meaning you would like to observe them for extended periods of time, you can set up a dark room. Red lights do not bother worms, so a dark room is the ideal space for those interested in long periods of observation. Earthworms may be purchased at just about any pet or plant store, at bait and tackle stores, and even at retailers such as Wal-Mart. Just look in the sporting goods section in the refrigerated cases. Good luck!

Worm castings can be used safely and they can even double as an insect and disease repellant by controlling plant pathogens and root-eating nematodes. In addition to being safe for humans to handle, worm castings won’t burn tender plant roots, and unlike other fertilizers which can emit a pungent or chemical-like odor, worm castings emit a rich earthy smell.

So, how do you create your own worm castings? You can create your own worm farm. Follow the link to find out how. But first, continue reading to find out the advantages of creating your own worm farm, followed by tips on purchasing wholesale worm castings.

The Advantages of Creating Your Own Worm Farm

By creating your own worm farm (using red worms), you may use it to recycle food waste such as fruit and vegetables, hair trimmings, eggshells, pizza boxes and other cardboard paper. Your worms will eat them all, but be sure to shred and soak the boxes first because worms do not have teeth. For the best and most nutritious worm castings, however, feed your worms a chemical-free mixture of shredded leaves and manure (animal and poultry, but not human). Finally, remove any worm eggs from the mix and you’ll end up with castings that look, feel and smell just like black topsoil.

You can even use the castings to make tea — for your plants! Apply the tea to the surfaces of the leaves and it will imbue the plant with many of its own natural microbes that are lost to attack from pathogenic organisms. A suggested ratio for use around the house and garden is 1:5 of undiluted tea to water. Pour this solution into a hand sprayer and use it about once per week, depending on the plants. Experiment (it’s not going to hurt them) and find out what’s best for your garden.

How to Purchase Wholesale Worm Castings

Purchasing wholesale worm castings is easy. All you have to do is visit your local nursery or home and garden store. It’s also easy to purchase castings online. Although you will have to pay a shipping fee, many online retailers offer rock bottom prices and Internet only specials, which will offset any shipping costs. To find worm castings wholesalers online, simply type “wholesale worm castings” into your favorite search engine and follow the results. Good luck

Worm Fun Facts

There are literally thousands of different worm species on the planet today. Without them, the earth’s trees, plants, fruits, and vegetables would not survive. Worms do several things for the earth. They aerate the soil, which means they dig tunnels in the soil, which allows air to get to the plant roots. Worms also eat organic matter, digest it, and excrete the digested material. This digested material is called castings. The castings are rich with phosphorus, calcium, and potassium.

Worm castings are so valuable and ten times richer in nutrients that commercial topsoil, that many gardeners and farmers use the composting method to fertilize plants and crops. Worm castings also help create channels within the layers of the earth’s soil, which helps to hold water better and keep moisture in the soil longer. Continue reading to learn more fun earthworm facts.

•There are more than 4,400 different types of worms in existence today. Of the 4,400 species, there are 2,700 species of earthworm. There are more than 1,200 species of another type of worm called the inchworm.

•Earthworms belong to one of several different types of ecological groups. There are three broad ecological groups that have been identified for earthworms including: epigeic, endogeic, and anecic. The groups are based on what the earthworms eat and where they tend to live in the soil. The epigeic group is a litter feeder, litter dweller, pigmented, small in size, and it doesn’t burrow. The endogeic group consists of rich soil feeders, topsoil dwellers, has no pigmentation, burrows horizontally, and it is small in size. The anecic consists of litter and soil feeders, soil dwellers, dorsally pigmented bodies, extensive vertical burrows, and a large size. Size and color are usually good distinguishers for adult earthworms.

•Earthworms can be found in just about every corner of the earth. They live in trees, in bark, and under rocks as well as along rivers, near springs, and in ponds. Their favorite place to live, however, is burrowed inside the earth’s rich soil. During the winter months they burrow deep within the earth until the surface warms again during the spring. During the warm summer months, worms stay closer to the tops of soil where they create tunnels to wiggle in and out of. These tunnels are extremely important for plant life as they create a path for water and air, which is essential for the survival of plant life.

•The clitellum of adult earthworms contains features called genital tumescence, and tubercula pubertatis. The clitellum features, the male pores, and female pores are found above the clitellum and are all parts of the earthworm reproductive system.

•The earthworm has “setae” which are tiny hair-like projections that are arranged in rows along the earthworm body. The setae are used for locomotion by the earthworm.

•Places like China, Australia, Greenland, and the Sahara Desert have their own indigenous species of earthworms. Besides the Sahara Desert, you won’t find large numbers of worms living in “sandy” areas, especially sandy beaches. The vast majority of worms on our planet can only survive under certain environmental conditions.

•Worms have no lungs, so they breathe through their skin. This means that the worm’s environment and skin must be moist at all times. This allows the worm to breathe in oxygen. If the worm’s skin dries out, the worm will die from suffocation. While worms need moisture to survive, too much moisture can be fatal. If too much water is present, it takes the place of oxygen, which will cause the worms to flee to the surface. Once on the surface, worms will be exposed to sunlight. If worms remain in the sunlight for too long, they can become paralyzed.

•In addition to needing a moist environment for survival, worms must also remain close to their food supply. Worms feed off of leaves and dead grass, which contain organisms that provide a healthy diet of bacteria, algae, and fungi. Worms feast on dirt as well, especially if they live deeper inside the earth. Worms also eat plants, fruits and vegetables.

•Although you cannot see them, believe it or not, worms do have mouths. The earthworm mouth is called the prostomium. The worm’s mouth is actually big enough and powerful enough to grab a leaf and drag it around. They also have a pharynx, esophagus, crop, gizzard and intestine. When the worm eats its food, it pulls the materials into its mouth with the help of the pharynx and its prostomium (also called acron). This creates a suction motion. This suction motion aids in helping the worm consume large amounts of food in a sort amount of time. The gizzard grinds the food.

•Worms eat so much that they typically produce excrement equal to their own weight every 24 hours.

•The worm’s moist sustenance rich environment plays an extremely important role in reproduction as well. Worms prefer to mate and reproduce in warm moist soil, away from the light.

However, if you are creating a compost pile, the last thing you want is to attract a lot of pests. Many pests are unhealthy for humans and may pose a health risk. Even if no health risk exists, pests will undoubtedly make the job of maintaining a compost pile more difficult. They are also quite annoying.

Following are a few of the more common compost pests that result from an improperly constructed pile, a pile that is not turned properly, or a pile that has thin edges creating a space for pests to congregate and breed. Pests can be treated with a variety of biological treatments such as Bacillus thuringiensis (or Bt), chemicals or natural treatments that can be found at your local garden center.

Stable Flies
Stable Flies look like houseflies. They are gray with black stripes and spots; however, they have a beak that is not present on the common housefly. This beak is used in a similar fashion as that of the mosquito. It is used to feed on the blood of humans and other animals making it a rather annoying and dangerous pest. Diseases can be transferred in a similar fashion to that of the mosquito. These flies feed most aggressively in the mornings and evenings.

House Flies
House Flies are also gray with black stripes on their head. They feed on liquid food, which is why they are often found in or near compost piles. Their mouth acts like a sponge to take in their food. Houseflies are annoying and breed frequently but they are harmless.

Green June Beetles
Green June Beetles are metallic in appearance and green along with a bit of yellow on their wings. They fly a lot and make a very loud buzzing sound when they are airborne, which is most often during the day when the sun is shining. They are known for running into whatever is in their path, including humans. Green June Beetles lay their eggs in organic waste. This is one of the reasons they are attracted to compost piles. It is the perfect breeding ground for the beetle. Beetle larvae are often confused for worms as they grow up to two inches long before they pupate. They can also reach up to one-half inch in diameter making them a rather difficult to miss.

Monarch caterpillars prefer milkweed for several reasons. For starters, they are attracted to the taste. Next, milkweed contains a chemical called cardiac glycoside. The monarch caterpillar’s digestive system has the ability to store this chemical in the body. When the monarch caterpillar becomes the target of a predator, the predator (if he bites the caterpillar) will taste this disgusting, poisonous chemical. This chemical will cause the predator to become very ill.

Worms, on the other hand, have no intention of being bitten or chewed up by a predator. When a predator approaches a worm, the worm has tiny little bristles on the body that cling to soil. Usually after a few attempts to pry the worm from the soil, the bird or other predator gives up. If the predator does manage to pull the worm from the soil, chances are, he’ll only end up with half. Fortunately, worms have the amazing ability to regenerate after being snapped in half.

Much like worms, monarch caterpillars add to the environment – they do not take away from it. Monarch caterpillars transform into astoundingly beautiful butterflies. Most gardeners, nature lovers, and others take joy in observing monarch caterpillars as they transform into butterflies, and flutter around gardens and trees. Worms, earthworms in particular, may not be as beautiful as monarch caterpillars, but they are crucial to maintaining beauty in our environment as well.

Worms do several things for the earth. They aerate the soil, which means they dig tunnels in the soil, which allows air to get to the plant roots. Worms also eat organic matter, digest it, and excrete the digested material. This digested material is called castings. Worms eat so much that they typically produce castings equal to their own weight every 24 hours. The castings are rich with phosphorus, calcium, and potassium. Worm castings are so valuable and ten times richer in nutrients that commercial topsoil, that many gardeners and farmers use the composting method to fertilize plants and crops. Worm castings also help create channels within the layers of the earth’s soil, which helps to hold water better and keep moisture in the soil longer.

Fun Facts About Monarch Caterpillars

Farmers love having the Monarch as a guest to rid fields of the persistent milkweed plant.

The day before the monarch caterpillar emerges from its egg, the egg turns black. After the caterpillar emerges from its shell, it eats it!

The larval stage of a monarch caterpillar’s life is 14 days.

A monarch caterpillar can grow over 2,000 times its original mass. This weight gain is important in determining how big the monarch will be as a full-grown butterfly.

In addition to storing the chemical cardiac glycoside for protection, the monarch caterpillar uses silk as a type of rope to evade predators. If it senses a predator, the caterpillar can crawl down to the ground by dispensing a string of silk. Like many other caterpillars and some worms, the monarch caterpillar will curl up into a ball “play dead” routine when touched.

When the monarch caterpillar is ready to pupate, it will hang off a twig or leaf in the shape of a “J”. Within a day, the monarch caterpillar will form into a chrysalis. Pupate refers to the non-feeding stage between the larva and adult in the metamorphosis of holometabolous insects, during which the larva typically undergoes complete transformation within a protective cocoon or hardened case.

A butterfly develops from a chrysalis, but a moth develops from a cocoon.
-www.asktheexterminator.com

Fun Facts About Earthworms

There are more than 4,400 different types of worms in existence today. Of the 4,400 species, there are 2,700 species of earthworm. There are more than 1,200 species of another type of worm called the inchworm.

Earthworms belong to one of several different types of ecological groups. There are three broad ecological groups that have been identified for earthworms including: epigeic, endogeic, and anecic. The groups are based on what the earthworms eat and where they tend to live in the soil. The epigeic group is a litter feeder, litter dweller, pigmented, small in size, and it doesn’t burrow. The endogeic group consists of rich soil feeders, topsoil dwellers, has no pigmentation, burrows horizontally, and it is small in size. The anecic consists of litter and soil feeders, soil dwellers, dorsally pigmented bodies, extensive vertical burrows, and a large size. Size and color are usually good distinguishers for adult earthworms.

Earthworms can be found in just about every corner of the earth. They live in trees, in bark, and under rocks as well as along rivers, near springs, and in ponds. Their favorite place to live, however, is burrowed inside the earth’s rich soil. During the winter months they burrow deep within the earth until the surface warms again during the spring. During the warm summer months, worms stay closer to the tops of soil where they create tunnels to wiggle in and out of. These tunnels are extremely important for plant life as they create a path for water and air, which is essential for the survival of plant life.

The clitellum of adult earthworms contains features called genital tumescence, and tubercula pubertatis. The clitellum features, the male pores, and female pores are found above the clitellum and are all parts of the earthworm reproductive system.

The earthworm has “setae” which are tiny hair-like projections that are arranged in rows along the earthworm body. The setae are used for locomotion by the earthworm.

Places like China, Australia, Greenland, and the Sahara Desert have their own indigenous species of earthworms. Besides the Sahara Desert, you won’t find large numbers of worms living in “sandy” areas, especially sandy beaches. The vast majority of worms on our planet can only survive under certain environmental conditions.

Worms have no lungs, so they breathe through their skin. This means that the worm’s environment and skin must be moist at all times. This allows the worm to breathe in oxygen. If the worm’s skin dries out, the worm will die from suffocation. While worms need moisture to survive, too much moisture can be fatal. If too much water is present, it takes the place of oxygen, which will cause the worms to flee to the surface. Once on the surface, worms will be exposed to sunlight. If worms remain in the sunlight for too long, they can become paralyzed.

In addition to needing a moist environment for survival, worms must also remain close to their food supply. Worms feed on leaves and dead grass, which contain organisms that provide a healthy diet of bacteria, algae, and fungi. Worms feast on dirt as well, especially if they live deeper inside the earth. Worms also eat plants, fruits, and vegetables.

Although you cannot see them, believe it or not, worms do have mouths. The earthworm mouth is called the prostomium. The worm’s mouth is actually big enough and powerful enough to grab a leaf and drag it around. They also have a pharynx, esophagus, crop, gizzard and intestine. When the worm eats its food, it pulls the materials into its mouth with the help of the pharynx and its prostomium (also called acron). This creates a suction motion. This suction motion aids in helping the worm consume large amounts of food in a sort amount of time. The gizzard grinds the food.

Worms eat so much that they typically produce excrement equal to their own weight every 24 hours.

The worm’s moist sustenance rich environment plays an extremely important role in reproduction as well. Worms prefer to mate and reproduce in warm moist soil, away from the light.

“The Australia Worm Farm is a two-piece vermicomposting unit.” It is easy to use and provides users with all the essential tools and information needed to create a worm composter. Essentially, the worm farm is a bin with two sections. The top section is where the worms live and feed. The waste from the worms drains into the bottom section creating the fertilizer you use.

This is a perfect compost solution for vegans and vegetarians. And, it is environmentally friendly as well as cruelty free. The compost bin has been redesigned to use less plastic and take up less space. There is no odor since the worms eat the odor causing bacteria as well which eliminates unwanted smells.

Included with the composting bin is a guide to vermiculture and a worm composting diary full of tips on how to best use the bin. You do need to purchase worms separately from the bin itself. Red worms are best as they are composting worms. One thousand worms are enough to get started. If you want to get up to full speed quickly, you can purchase 2,000 worms in the beginning.

The vermicomposting unit allows worms to live and breed with ease. Red worms produce egg capsules about every two weeks. Egg capsules hatch in approximately three weeks with anywhere from 10 to 15 worms. Since the worms breed in the composting environment, the size and health of your worm population will depend partly on how much you feed them.

If you keep your bin indoors, there are some foods that are not ideal for composting. For example, citrus peels, onions and fruits attract fruit flies, a rather unpleasant side effect that few people would enjoy. If you keep your composting bin outdoors, then this is not likely to be a problem.

Most kitchen waste is easily composted in a worm composting unit. Worms may not be the most pleasant of animals to look at, but they do serve a very valuable function in the lifecycle. They are nature’s soil cultivators. They help water, leaves, and other nutrients flow through soil and their waste serves a powerful fertilizer. Not only can you save on composting costs and protect landfills from unnecessary waste, but you can save money on fertilizer as well while knowing you are helping to sustain the environment.

Learn more about the Australian Worm Composter

Clean Air Gardening Blog: site.cleanairgardening.com
Clean Air Gardening – Worm Composter Vermicomposting Bin: www.cleanairgardening.com

To begin the vermicomposting process, you will need several items including:

·Raw fruits and vegetables
·A shallow container (24″ X 18″ X 8″ should suffice) with a lid (make sure there are holes in the bottom
·Moist Leaves
· Worms: red worms, such as Eisenia foetida or
other surface feeding worms. Do not use earth worms. They will not survive in a worm composting system

After (not before) your worm bed is complete, purchase your red worms. Two pounds, which is equal to around 2,000 worms, should suffice. Red worms can be purchased from a number of online retailers or at most plant and pet stores. To start the worm bin, wash out the container or bin that you are using. Make sure there are holes in the bottom for water to drain. If the liquid doesn’t drain, a worm bin will most likely go anaerobic and the worms may possibly drown. Managing moisture in the bin is important.

Mix the organic materials together and add the worms. Worms should be fed periodically — not all at once. Too much food at one time will attract nuisance bugs, maybe animals too, and will probably start to smell after a short while. There are different methods for managing bins to keep pests like fruit flies under control. Temperature control is important. Heat will destroy your worms. Freezing cold will kill your worms, but the egg cases will survive. A plastic bin should never be put in the sun.

It takes roughly 3-5 months for the worms to eat through the materials. At this time, you will notice very little materials and a hefty amount of compost. Once this happens, it’s time to harvest.

Harvesting means — do not add any food to the bin for two weeks. When two weeks has passed, simply move all of the worm bin contents to one side of the bin and remove any large pieces of undecomposed materials. Add fresh materials – leaves, fruits and vegetables, to the empty side of the bin. Over the next two weeks or so, the worms will begin to move to the side where the new materials are located, leaving their compost behind. All that is needed at this point is to remove the old compost and replace it with fresh materials. Cover the new side of the composting bin to encourage the worms to migrate to the new side.

When you are ready to use your fresh worm compost, you can use several methods of extraction, but one method in particular seems to be the most effective. Dump the entire contents of the bin onto a large sheet of plastic and make several piles. Once exposed to the light, the worms will quickly bury themselves in the bottom of the compost within 2-3 minutes. After a few minutes, remove the top layer of compost, leaving the worms on the bottom. Once you have removed all of the worm compost, simply collect the worms and return them to the composting bin.

Worm compost material is ready to use immediately or if you choose, you can store it for later use. Worm compost can be added directly into your potting soil or mixed in with your garden soil as a soil amendment. If you notice a worm or two in the compost, don’t be alarmed. This is fairly common. Worm compost use is not limited to outdoor gardening. You can also use worm compost in the tops of your indoor plants. And don’t worry, the odor is not offensive.

Want more vermicomposting tips? Visit: wormwoman.com.

“Worm farming” is actually a process of using worms to recycle organic material and food scraps into a useful soil amendment called vermicompost. Vermicompost is also called “worm compost.” Other terms for worm farm include “worm composting” or “vermiculture.”

When worms consume food scraps, the scraps become compost as they pass though the worms body. The compost exits the worm’s body through its tail. The result is a powerful fertilizer that can be used to help grow plants to their maximum potential. The reason that the worm compost is such a powerful fertilizer is that worms eat nutrient packed fruit and vegetable scraps and in turn, their bodies turn the scraps into nutrient-rich compost.

To start your worm farm, you will need several items:

·Raw fruits and vegetables
·A shallow container (24″ X 18″ X 8″ should suffice) with a lid
·Moist Leaves
·Worms, preferably red worms such as Eisenia foetida or Lumbricus rubellus

One of the first things you should do to start your school worm farm is purchase red worms. Red worms can be purchased from a number of online retailers or at most plant and/or pet stores. Next, wash out the container or bin that you are using. If you have a wooden bin, line the bottom of it with sturdy plastic such as a heavy trash bag or shower curtain. Mix the organic materials together and add the worms. It takes roughly 3-5 months for the worms to eat through the materials. At this time, you will notice very little materials and a hefty amount of compost. Once this happens, it’s time to harvest.

Harvesting means: do not add any food to the bin for two weeks. When two weeks has passed, simply move all of the worm bin contents to one side of the bin and remove any large pieces of undecomposed materials. Add fresh materials – leaves, fruits and vegetables, to the empty side of the bin. Over the next two weeks or so, the worms will begin to move to the side where the new materials are located, leaving their compost behind. All that is needed at this point is to remove the old compost and replace it with fresh materials. Cover the new side of the composting bin to encourage the worms to migrate to the new side.

When you are ready to use your fresh worm compost, you can use several methods of extraction, but one method in particular seems to be the most effective. Dump the entire contents of the bin onto a large sheet of plastic and make several piles. Once exposed to the light, the worms will quickly bury themselves in the bottom of the compost within 2-3 minutes. After a few minutes, remove the top layer of compost, leaving the worms on the bottom. Once you have removed all of the worm compost, simply collect the worms and return them to the composting bin.

Worm farm material is ready to use immediately or if you choose, you can store it for later use. Worm compost can be added directly into your potting soil or mixed in with your garden soil as a soil amendment. If you notice a worm or two in the compost, don’t be alarmed. This is fairly common. Worm compost use is not limited to outdoor gardening. You can also use worm compost in the tops of your indoor plants, as the odor is not offensive.

Red worms are productive breeders. They lay one egg capsule every seven days or so and each capsule hatches an average of three to four earthworms, although seven or even a dozen per capsule is not uncommon. Hatched earthworms typically grow into breeders in roughly three months. Red worms are hermaphroditic creatures, meaning, they have both male and female sex organs. Although these interesting creatures have both male and female sex organs, it still takes two to tango.

Although other types of worms can be used for composting, red worms are actually the best worms to use, so you will want to raise them well and keep them happy if you want them to reproduce quickly. To create the ideal conditions for red worm reproduction you should begin by gathering the following materials for feeding:

• Raw fruits and vegetables
• Fruit Peelings
• Eggshells (well-crushed)
• Bread and other grains
• A shallow container or bin (24″ X 18″ X 8″ should suffice) with a lid

For bedding, use shredded paper, cardboard, dead plants, newspaper or fall leaves, as well as straw. You can also buy commercial bedding. Keep your bedding nice and moist as worms need moisture to survive. To begin creating the perfect environment for your red worms, wash out the container or bin. If you have a wooden bin, line the bottom of it with sturdy plastic such as a heavy trash bag or shower curtain.

There are a number of rules to follow when feeding compost worms. It is important to avoid feeding bones, meat, fat, cheese or dairy, grass, twigs or wood, banana peels, or any synthetic materials to your red worms. Mix the organic materials together and add the worms. It takes roughly 3-5 months for the worms to eat through the organic materials. At this time, you will notice very little materials and a hefty amount of compost. Once this happens, it’s time to harvest.

Harvesting means: do not add any food to the bin for two weeks. When two weeks has passed, simply move all of the worm bin contents to one side of the bin and remove any large pieces of undecomposed materials. Add fresh materials – leaves, fruits and vegetables, to the empty side of the bin. Over the next two weeks or so, the worms will begin to move to the side where the new materials are located, leaving their compost behind. All that is needed at this point is to remove the old compost and replace it with fresh materials. Cover the new side of the composting bin to encourage the worms to migrate to the new side.

When you are ready to use your fresh worm compost, you can use several methods of extraction, but one method in particular seems to be the most effective. Dump the entire contents of the bin onto a large sheet of plastic and make several piles. Once exposed to the light, the worms will quickly bury themselves in the bottom of the compost within 2-3 minutes. After a few minutes, remove the top layer of compost, leaving the worms on the bottom. Once you have removed all of the worm compost, simply collect the worms and return them to the composting bin.

Your red worm composting material is ready to use immediately or if you choose, you can store it for later use. Worm compost can be added directly into your potting soil or mixed in with your garden soil as a soil amendment. If you notice a worm or two in the compost, don’t be alarmed. This is fairly common. Worm compost use is not limited to outdoor gardening. You can also use red worm compost in the tops of your indoor plants. The odor is not offensive.

According to Vermico (vermiculture information & supplies resource), electric heating cables are thermostatically set for optimum temperature control. The heating cables in worm beds will maintain a consistent, ideal temperature of 72 degrees. The cables should be looped 4”-6” below the bedding surface in order for it to operate as an “underground sun.’’ The cables will heat the worm bed with gentle bottom heat.

A good cable system will have a built-in thermostat, which automatically activates the cable when the temperature drops below 74°F. The heating cable should plug directly into 110V outlets and use 42 watts/12 ft. Quality heating cables are designed to prevent shock danger in wet conditions. Protect heating cables by laying a wire mesh screen over them before covering with bedding. Heating cables work best for a 12 sq. ft. area (approx.). –www.vermico.com

How to Make a Worm Bed

If you are planning to create a worm composting system, you’re going to need a worm bed – and a good one! A worm bed is actually the most important part of a successful worm composting system. A worm bed can be made from either moist newspaper strips or moist leaves. It’s important to keep in mind that your newspaper or leaves should not be soaking wet. If you want to keep your composting worms happy and healthy, all you need to do is follow a few simple steps on how to build a worm bed and the system that holds it. Having some knowledge about composting will be helpful as well, so continue reading to learn about how worm composting works and the tools you need to be successful at it.

About Worm Composting

Worm composting is the process of using worms to recycle organic material and food scraps into vermicompost. Vermicompost, also called “worm compost,” is a very useful soil amendment. When worms consume food scraps, the scraps become compost as they pass though the worms body. The compost exits the worm’s body through its tail. The result is a perfectly powerful fertilizer that can be used to help grow plants to their maximum potential. The reason that the worm compost is such a powerful fertilizer is that worms eat nutrient packed fruit and vegetable scraps and in turn, their bodies turn the scraps into nutrient-rich compost.

To create the perfect worm compost, gather the following materials:

·Raw fruits and vegetables
·A shallow container (24″ X 18″ X 8″ should work) with a lid
·Moist Leaves or moist newspaper strips (for the worm bed)
·Worms, preferably red worms such as Eisenia foetida or Lumbricus rubellus

One of the first things you should do when worm composting is to purchase the red worms, if you have not already raised several hundred on your own. Red worms can be purchased from a number of online retailers or at most plant and/or pet stores. Next, wash out the container or bin that you are using. If you have a wooden bin, line the bottom of it with sturdy plastic such as a heavy trash bag or shower curtain. Mix the organic materials together and add the worms. It takes roughly 3-5 months for the worms to eat through the materials. At this time, you will notice very little materials and a hefty amount of compost. Once this happens, it’s time to harvest.

Harvesting means: do not add any food to the bin for two weeks. When two weeks has passed, simply move all of the worm bin contents to one side of the bin and remove any large pieces of undecomposed materials. Add fresh materials – leaves, fruits and vegetables, to the empty side of the bin. Over the next two weeks or so, the worms will begin to move to the side where the new materials are located, leaving their compost behind. All that is needed at this point is to remove the old compost and replace it with fresh materials. Cover the new side of the composting bin to encourage the worms to migrate to the new side.

When you are ready to use your fresh worm compost, you can use several methods of extraction, but one method in particular seems to be the most effective. Dump the entire contents of the bin, including the worm bed, onto a large sheet of plastic and make several piles. Once exposed to the light, the worms will quickly bury themselves in the bottom of the compost within 2-3 minutes. After a few minutes, remove the top layer of compost, leaving the worms on the bottom. Once you have removed all of the worm compost, simply collect the worms and return them to the composting bin.

Worm composting material is ready to use immediately or if you choose, you can store it for later use. Worm compost can be added directly into your potting soil or mixed in with your garden soil as a soil amendment. If you notice a worm or two in the compost, don’t be alarmed. This is fairly common. Worm compost use is not limited to outdoor gardening. Because the odor is not offensive, you can also use worm compost in the tops of your indoor plants.

Source: Vermico, www.vermico.com, “Worm Bins & Supplies.”