However, we recently received an email from a reader about a specific worm he found in his compost, and he was wondering what type of worm this might be. Here is the picture we were sent:

In answering our reader’s question, we thought we would also point out a couple of the common worms that are used for composting.

For people who have an official composting area or bin set up (as opposed to just some organic waste lying around), they are more likely than not using red worms, which go by several different names, including redworms (as a single word), brandling worms, tiger worms, and red wigglers. (Of course, they also have a scientific name: Eisenia fetida.) Red worms are preferred for the task of composting because they consume a ton (they can eat more than their body weight in compost every single day) and reproduce quickly. Both result in more unhelpful waste being converted into helpful fertilizer, which is of course the goal of composting.

Another worm associated with the process of composting is the common earthworm (more precisely, Lumbricus rubellus, which is actually one of many different species of earthworms, but that’s neither here nor there). Unlike red worms, earthworms are generally not specifically acquired for one’s compost bin. While they breakdown organic waste and convert it into nutrient-rich fertilizer, just like red worms, they do it at a slower rate. If you come across some accumulation of organic waste that is not part of a compost operation, there is a good chance you’ll find some earthworms, but not red worms, in it. You might also find earthworms in compost bins dominated by red worms, however, as earthworms are more effective at breaking down organic waste that is already partially decomposed.

And what about our reader’s question? Given what’s been said so far, it is likely that our reader simply found one of the two worms described above, most likely the red worm, as the reader seems to have a full-blown composting operation going. His confusion may have arisen from the fact that the worm he found was quite small, but this probably just means that the worm was early in its life cycle. Red worms, after coming out of their eggs (which, interestingly, are actually wrapped up in a cocoon), are a pale yellowish color, but as they mature their bodies take on a brown hue. These traits more or less match the appearance of the worm in the picture our reader sent us, so it seems likely that they came across a developing red worm.

So, if you find a worm in a composting bin, it’s a probably one of the common worms that are found in composting bins, even if it looks slightly different for reasons of age.

The material components of worm tea are nothing but worm castings (worm waste) and water. This mixture must be oxygenated, as this increases the amount of good bacteria present in the worm tea (among other things; oxygenation also adds nitrogen, phosphate and a few other chemicals to the worm tea).

Given that worm tea doesn’t consist of much, it makes sense that it’s relatively easy to make. First, fill a bucket about three-quarters full with water. Before adding the worm castings, allow the water to aerate for about two hours, which you’ll be able to do by adding an aquarium air pump to the water. This process will remove any chlorine in the water. Thereafter, add three to five scoops (or handfuls) of worm castings and about an ounce of unsulfured molasses to the water, stir this mixture together, and let it aerate for another 24 hours. (If you’re curious, the molasses is used to feed the bacteria, thus facilitating the creation of good bacteria.)

After you’ve done this, strain the resulting concoction in your bucket. What remains is worm tea. That’s all there is to it!

But, the extremely relevant question remains: what can you use worm tea for? In essence, worm tea is used for gardening and lawn upkeep. Worm tea is loaded with helpful microorganisms and other nutrients that plants and soil need to kill disease and harmful insects, and it’s able to do this without harming your plants. Worm tea is like vitamins for plants – it boosts the plant’s immune system.

Since worm tea has bacteria in it that is alive, it’s best to use it as soon as possible. (If it starts to smell bad, its usefulness has expired, so don’t use it.) In light of this, it’s best to make sure you have time to spray your plants and/or lawn with worm tea soon after you’ve created it. This may influence the time of the day at which you start to make worm tea. If you start making worm tea late at night for some reason, you could be setting yourself up for midnight gardening.

If you don’t have the time to make worm tea, you could always buy some. Amazon offers well-reviewed worm tea here:

Nature’s Big Bud Worm Castings Premium 100% Organic Liquid Plant Food Tea Fertilizer

Worm factories are built like dressers, with the bottom drawer housing the rich, ready-to-use compost.

Here’s how they work: Let’s say you just bought a new worm factory – who wants to deal with a used worm factory? – and, just to make this a more pleasant hypothetical, let’s say you bought the worm factory on sale. First, you would remove the bottom tray and fill it with the compost you accumulate throughout the day – things like leftovers and rotted food. According to some advertisements, worm farms can even process things like junk mail and cardboard.

After the tray is loaded, add several worms to it. The worms will go to work on the waste, slowly converting it into nutrient-rich compost as they digest whatever you threw in there. The worm factory not only produces worm castings (also known as vermicast, worm humus, or worm manure), but also a liquid nutrient called leachate. The leachate is formed by moisture trickling through the worm factory. The liquid collects nutrients as it trickles downward, and the final product is collected in a separate tray.

Once the bottom tray is full and crawling with worms, add another tray of compost to the factory. Once the worms exhaust the original food source in the bottom tray, they will migrate upward, starting the process all over in the tray above. Not only are worms creating more compost this way, they are also removing themselves from the tray that has the ready-to-use compost in it.

There are a variety of different worm-factory models made by a variety of different companies. Which factory you choose will depend on how much organic waste you want to convert into nutrient-rich compost. You may also be influenced by aesthetics: some worm factories are black, some are red; some are tall with many shelves, others are short with only a shelf or two. However, they all serve the same function: to efficiently convert unprocessed compost into nutrient-rich compost for your garden.

Amazon offers a well-reviewed Worm Farm for sale here:

Worm Factory 360 WF360G Worm Composter – Green

To create the perfect worm compost you gather the following items:

•Raw fruits and vegetables
•A shallow container (24″ X 18″ X 8″ should suffice) with a lid
•Moist Leaves
•Worms, preferably red worms such as Eisenia foetida or Lumbricus rubellus

Red worms can be purchased from a number of online retailers or at most plant and/or pet stores. To get started, wash out the container or bin that you are using. If you have a wooden bin, line the bottom of it with sturdy plastic such as a heavy trash bag or shower curtain. Mix the organic materials together and add the worms. It takes roughly 3-5 months for the worms to eat through the materials. At this time, you will notice very little materials and a large amount of compost. Once this happens, it’s time to harvest.

Harvesting means, do not add any food to the bin for two weeks. When two weeks has passed, simply move all of the worm bin contents to one side of the bin and remove any large pieces of undecomposed materials. Add fresh materials – leaves, fruits and vegetables, to the empty side of the bin. Over the next two weeks or so, the worms will begin to move to the side where the new materials are located, leaving their compost behind. All that is needed at this point is to remove the old compost and replace it with fresh materials. Cover the new side of the composting bin to encourage the worms to migrate to the new side.

When you are ready to use your fresh worm compost, you can use several methods of extraction, but one method in particular seems to be the most effective. Dump the entire contents of the bin onto a large sheet of plastic and make several piles. Once exposed to the light, the worms will quickly bury themselves in the bottom of the compost within 2-3 minutes. After a few minutes, remove the top layer of compost, leaving the worms on the bottom. Once you have removed all of the worm compost, simply collect the worms and return them to the composting bin.

Worm castings are ready to use immediately or if you choose, you can store it for later use. Worm compost can be added directly into your potting soil or mixed in with your garden soil as a soil amendment. If you notice a worm or two in the compost, don’t be alarmed. This is normal. Worm compost use is not limited to outdoor gardening. You can also use worm compost in the tops of your indoor plants. Don’t worry, the odor is not offensive.

Although there are many, one of the most popular types of fishing worm is an epigeic earthworm called the red worm. Red worms are also called: Red Wigglers, Red Wiggler, Brandlings, Earthworms, Earth Worms, Redworms, Manure Worms, Trout Worms, Compost Worms, and Tiger Worms. Red worms are excellent for catching trout, crappie, perch, and bluegill. These are just a few of the types of fish that prefer small baits. Red worms are quite easy to use as bait as they can survive a wide range of temperatures ranging from 38 to 95 degrees Fahrenheit. Once on the hook, the red worm becomes quite active. Red worms can last a long time under water, unlike many other types of earthworms.

Not only are they used for fish bait, red worms are also used for vermicomposting. Vermicomposting is a method of composting food scraps by adding red worms to them in a specially prepared bin or box. In just one day, red worms can consume organic material equivalent to their body weight to produce castings equal to 75 percent of their body weight. Red worms can convert organic materials into high quality humus, which will provide gardens with earthworm castings, which is considered a complete (and powerful) natural fertilizer.

If you want to use red worms for fishing or vermicomposting, you can actually raise them yourself in several easy steps. The great thing about using red worms for composting is you will never run out of them and they are kept alive. Red worms are very productive breeders. They lay one egg capsule every seven days or so and each capsule hatches an average of three to four earthworms. Hatched earthworms typically grow into breeders in roughly three months. The way to keep the red worms productive is to keep them healthy and happy. If you have a roomy bin (a 5-gallon bucket or other container), the best type of “bedding” such as peat moss, water for moisture, and organic materials such as fruit and vegetable peels, your red worms will be well-fed, comfortable, and productive.

General maintenance is also important to the health of your red worms for composting. This means that there are several do’s and don’ts of raising red worms. These include:

·Don’t keep your worm bin in direct sunlight.
·Do keep your worms ideal locations such as the basement, a closet or under the kitchen sink.
·Do lightly toss the bedding every week or two, allowing the bedding at the bottom of the bin to be on the top. This process will allow sufficient oxygen to be throughout the bedding. Remember, red worms absorb oxygen through their bodies.
·Do lightly spray red worm bedding that appears to be getting dry.

To purchase red worms, visit any pet store or fish & bait store. You can also order live red worms through a number of online retailers. Simply use your favorite search engine to find a suitable red worm seller. Use the search phrase “buy red worms.”

If you want to do your own composting, you may purchase African nightcrawlers from a bait shop, a pet store, or you may purchase them online. Keep in mind that African nightcrawlers go by several different names including California super reds, super reds, and Japanese tigers.

About Composting with African nightcralers

Worm composting is the process of using worms to recycle organic material and food scraps into a useful soil amendment called “vermicompost.” Vermicompost is also called “worm compost.” When worms consume food scraps, the scraps become compost as they pass though the worms body. The compost exits the worm’s body through its tail. The result is a perfectly powerful fertilizer that can be used to help grow plants to their maximum potential. The reason that the worm compost is such a powerful fertilizer is that worms eat nutrient packed fruit and vegetable scraps and in turn, their bodies turn the scraps into nutrient-rich compost.

To create the perfect worm compost you will need several items including:

·Raw fruits and vegetables
·A shallow container (24″ X 18″ X 8″ should suffice) with a lid
·Moist Leaves
·Worms

Wash out the container or bin that you are using. If you have a wooden bin, line the bottom of it with sturdy plastic such as a heavy trash bag or shower curtain. Mix the organic materials together and add the worms. It takes roughly 3-5 months for the worms to eat through the materials. At this time, you will notice very little materials and a hefty amount of compost. Once this happens, it’s time to harvest.

Harvesting means: do not add any food to the bin for two weeks. When two weeks has passed, simply move all of the worm bin contents to one side of the bin and remove any large pieces of undecomposed materials. Add fresh materials – leaves, fruits and vegetables, to the empty side of the bin. Over the next two weeks or so, the worms will begin to move to the side where the new materials are located, leaving their compost behind. All that is needed at this point is to remove the old compost and replace it with fresh materials. Cover the new side of the composting bin to encourage the worms to migrate to the new side.

When you are ready to use your fresh worm compost, you can use several methods of extraction, but one method in particular seems to be the most effective. Dump the entire contents of the bin onto a large sheet of plastic and make several piles. Once exposed to the light, the worms will quickly bury themselves in the bottom of the compost within 2-3 minutes. After a few minutes, remove the top layer of compost, leaving the worms on the bottom. Once you have removed all of the worm compost, simply collect the worms and return them to the composting bin.

Worm composting material is ready to use immediately or if you choose, you can store it for later use. Worm compost can be added directly into your potting soil or mixed in with your garden soil as a soil amendment. If you notice a worm or two in the compost, don’t be alarmed. This is fairly common. Worm compost use is not limited to outdoor gardening. You can also use worm compost in the tops of your indoor plants, as the odor is not offensive.

Worm castings are so valuable and ten times richer in nutrients that commercial topsoil, that many gardeners and farmers use the composting method to fertilize plants and crops. Worm castings also help create channels within the layers of the earth’s soil, which helps to hold water better and keep moisture in the soil longer.

To avoid killing earthworms, it is important to make sure the pest that has infested your milkwood, pecan, or apple tree does not have any of the characteristics of an earthworm. Just a few of the characteristics used to identify earthworms include Genital tumescene (GT), the Tubercula pubertatis (TP), and the Clitellum. The clitellum of adult earthworms contains features called genital tumescence, and tubercula pubertatis. The clitellum features, the male pores, and female pores are found above the clitellum and are all parts of the earthworm reproductive system.

Earthworms also have “setae” which are tiny hair-like projections that are arranged in rows along the earthworm body. The setae are used are used for locomotion by the earthworm. The prostomium is the earthworm mouth. The size, shape, and position of the different characteristics of the worm are different in different species of earthworms and will help you to identify the species of earthworms you may be dealing with.

Once you have made the determination that the pests are not earthworms, you can begin treatment. Try using Dipel Dust & Spray or Bacillus Thuringiensis (Bt). Fortunately, these insecticides are harmless to people and they are not considered toxic to friendly insects. If you decide to use anything stronger than these biological insecticides, please consider hiring a professional home and garden exterminator. A professional home and garden exterminator will know exactly how to kill the pests in your trees without killing earthworms or causing any further damage to your trees.

For more information on how to control pests in your garden and trees, visit the University of California Agriculture and Natural Resources website at http://www.ipm.ucdavis.edu/PMG/r107303211.html.

Worm composting is the process of using worms to recycle organic material and food scraps into a useful soil amendment called “vermicompost.” Vermicompost is also called “worm compost.” When worms consume food scraps, the scraps become compost as they pass though the worms body. The compost exits the worm’s body through its tail. The result is a perfectly powerful fertilizer that can be used to help grow plants to their maximum potential. Worm compost is a powerful fertilizer mainly because worms eat nutrient packed fruit and vegetable scraps. The worm’s body then turns the scraps into nutrient-rich compost.

Make Your Own Worm Composter

Based on the scale of your composting project, the size of your worm bin will vary. Some worm composters are “small scale” while others may be “large scale.” A small scale worm composter may be homemade or purchased from a retailer. Small-scale worm composters may be made of wood, plastic, metal or Styrofoam. The preferred choices, however, are plastic or wood. Small-scale worm composters should always have holes in them to allow air to flow through and for draining purposes. A small scale worm composter is usually covered with a lid to prevent the worms from escaping.

Large scale worm composters are just that – large sized worm composters. Besides size, a major difference between large scale and a small-scale worm composter is large scale composters are typically uncovered. The worms do not try to escape mainly because large-scale composters contain an overabundance of organic matter for worms to feed on. They won’t try to escape because they don’t have to go searching for food.

To make your own small scale worm composter you will need several items including:

•Raw fruits and vegetables
•A shallow container (24″ X 18″ X 8″ should suffice) with a lid
•Moist Leaves
•Worms, preferably red worms such as Eisenia foetida or Lumbricus rubellus

The best types of worms to use for composting are red worms. Red worms can be purchased from a number of online retailers or at most plant and/or pet stores. When you are ready to build your bin, wash out the bin or container you plan to use. If you have a wooden bin, line the bottom of it with sturdy plastic such as a heavy trash bag or shower curtain. Mix the organic materials together and add the worms. It takes roughly 3-5 months for the worms to eat through the materials. At this time, you will notice very little materials and a hefty amount of compost. Once this happens, it’s time to harvest.

Harvesting means: do not add any food to the bin for two weeks. When two weeks has passed, simply move all of the worm bin contents to one side of the bin and remove any large pieces of undecomposed materials. Add fresh materials – leaves, fruits and vegetables, to the empty side of the bin. Over the next two weeks or so, the worms will begin to move to the side where the new materials are located, leaving their compost behind. All that is needed at this point is to remove the old compost and replace it with fresh materials. Cover the new side of the worm composter to encourage the worms to migrate to the new side.

When you are ready to use your fresh worm compost, you can use several methods of extraction, but one method in particular seems to be the most effective. Dump the entire contents of the worm composter onto a large sheet of plastic and make several piles. Once exposed to the light, the worms will quickly bury themselves in the bottom of the compost within 2-3 minutes. After a few minutes, remove the top layer of compost, leaving the worms on the bottom. Once you have removed all of the worm compost, simply collect the worms and return them to the composter.

Worm composting material is ready to use immediately or you can store it for later use. Worm compost can be added directly into your potting soil or mixed in with your garden soil as a soil amendment. If you notice a worm or two in the compost, don’t be alarmed. This is fairly common. Worm compost use is not limited to outdoor gardening. Because the odor is not offensive, you can also use worm compost in the tops of indoor plants.

These deep containers have raised floors. The floors are made from welded wires and they are spaced far apart. Sheets of newspaper litter the wire floor, topped with damp bedding. What happens once the bedding has been laid is explained best by Worm Digest online at www.wormdigest.org. According to the site, “worms are added to the system and food waste is added gradually. The system is continually fed until the bin is nearly full. The worms move upward through the feedstock/bedding layers. Once the bin is nearly full of material, vermicompost is removed from the bottom each time the system is fed, establishing equilibrium. Vermicompost is removed by pulling the bar across the floor, which causes a thin layer of vermicompost to fall through. Some systems suggest scraping a small rake across the bottom of the floor to dislodge the vermicompost.”

About Vermiculture and Small Scale Systems

So what is vermiculture? Vermiculture is the process of using worms to recycle organic material and food scraps into a useful soil amendment called “vermicompost.” As worms consume food scraps, the material becomes compost as it passes though the worms body and exits through its tail. The result is a powerful fertilizer that can be used to help grow plants to their maximum potential. Worm compost is such a powerful fertilizer mainly because worms tend to eat nutrient packed fruit and vegetable scraps and their bodies turn the scraps into nutrient-rich compost.

To begin the vermiculture process, you will need several items including:

•Raw fruits and vegetables
•A shallow container (24″ X 18″ X 8″ should suffice) with a lid (make sure there are holes in the bottom
•Moist Leaves
•Worms: red worms, such as Eisenia foetida or other surface feeding worms. Do not use earthworms. They will not survive in a worm composting system

After (not before) your worm bed is complete, purchase around 2 pounds of red worms. This is equal to around 2,000 worms. You can purchase red worms online or at a plant or pet store. To start the worm bin, wash out the container or bin that you are using. Make sure there are holes in the bottom for water to drain. If the liquid doesn’t drain, a worm bin will most likely go anaerobic and the worms may possibly drown. Managing moisture in the bin is important.

Mix the organic materials together and add the worms. Worms should be fed periodically — not all at once. Too much food at one time will attract nuisance bugs, maybe animals too, and will probably start to smell after a short while. There are different methods for managing bins to keep pests like fruit flies under control. Temperature control is important. Heat will destroy your worms. Freezing cold will kill your worms, but the egg cases will survive. A plastic bin should never be put in the sun.

It takes roughly 3-5 months for the worms to eat through the materials. At this time, you will notice very little materials and a hefty amount of compost. Once this happens, it’s time to harvest.

Harvesting means — do not add any food to the bin for two weeks. When two weeks has passed, simply move all of the worm bin contents to one side of the bin and remove any large pieces of undecomposed materials. Add fresh materials – leaves, fruits and vegetables, to the empty side of the bin. Over the next two weeks or so, the worms will begin to move to the side where the new materials are located, leaving their compost behind. All that is needed at this point is to remove the old compost and replace it with fresh materials. Cover the new side of the composting bin to encourage the worms to migrate to the new side.

When you are ready to use your fresh worm compost, you can use several methods of extraction, but one method in particular seems to be the most effective. Dump the entire contents of the bin onto a large sheet of plastic and make several piles. Once exposed to the light, the worms will quickly bury themselves in the bottom of the compost within 2-3 minutes. After a few minutes, remove the top layer of compost, leaving the worms on the bottom. Once you have removed all of the worm compost, simply collect the worms and return them to the composting bin.

Worm compost material is ready to use immediately or if you choose, you can store it for later use. Worm compost can be added directly into your potting soil or mixed in with your garden soil as a soil amendment. If you notice a worm or two in the compost, don’t be alarmed. This is fairly common. Worm compost use is not limited to outdoor gardening. You can also use worm compost in the tops of your indoor plants as the odor is not offensive.

Want more vermiculture tips? Visit: wormwoman.com.

• Increased productivity by 20-40 percent.
• Less insects and pests attack on crops after consistent use of vermicast
• Less weed infestation as compared to farmyard manure
• Reduced cost of cultivation ranging from 40-50 percent.
• Significantly more tillering, flowering and grain setting
• Substitute chemical inputs ranging from 30-100 percent.
• Additional price gain from the sale of farm produce
• Better taste of food
• Bigger size of farm produce
• Cultivation became possible in saline-alkaline conditions
• Less irrigation water requirement

Benefits in Landscapes, Gardens and Nurseries

• It eliminates the need for weeding operations.
• It improves germination of seeds in nurseries.
• It improves the quality and appearance.
• It increases the shelf life of flowers.
• It reduces the bulk (as compared to FYM).
• It reduces water consumption.

Benefits in Soil and Water Conservation

• Enables reclamation of waste lands for plantation & cultivation.
• It helps in stabilization of earthen structures through better vegetative growth.
• It promotes grass production in degraded open grasslands.

Benefits in Plantation of Trees

• Enables early regeneration of partly degraded forest areas.
• Helps in early stabilization of transplants.
• Increases overall vegetation in hilly regions.

So what exactly is vermiculture?

Vermiculture is the process of using worms to recycle organic material and food scraps into a useful soil amendment called “vermicompost.” As worms consume food scraps, the material becomes compost as it passes though the worms body and exits through its tail. The result is a powerful fertilizer that can be used to help grow plants to their maximum potential. Worm compost is such a powerful fertilizer mainly because worms tend to eat nutrient packed fruit and vegetable scraps and their bodies turn the scraps into nutrient-rich compost.

To begin the vermiculture process, you will need several items including:

·Raw fruits and vegetables
·A shallow container (24″ X 18″ X 8″ should suffice) with a lid (make sure there are holes in the bottom
·Moist Leaves
· Worms: red worms, such as Eisenia foetida or
other surface feeding worms. Do not use earthworms. They will not survive in a worm composting system

After (not before) your worm bed is complete, purchase your red worms. Two pounds, which is equal to around 2,000 worms, should suffice. Red worms can be purchased from a number of online retailers or at most plant and pet stores. To start the worm bin, wash out the container or bin that you are using. Make sure there are holes in the bottom for water to drain. If the liquid doesn’t drain, a worm bin will most likely go anaerobic and the worms may possibly drown. Managing moisture in the bin is important.

Mix the organic materials together and add the worms. Worms should be fed periodically — not all at once. Too much food at one time will attract nuisance bugs, maybe animals too, and will probably start to smell after a short while. There are different methods for managing bins to keep pests like fruit flies under control. Temperature control is important. Heat will destroy your worms. Freezing cold will kill your worms, but the egg cases will survive. A plastic bin should never be put in the sun.

It takes roughly 3-5 months for the worms to eat through the materials. At this time, you will notice very little materials and a hefty amount of compost. Once this happens, it’s time to harvest.

Harvesting means — do not add any food to the bin for two weeks. When two weeks has passed, simply move all of the worm bin contents to one side of the bin and remove any large pieces of undecomposed materials. Add fresh materials – leaves, fruits and vegetables, to the empty side of the bin. Over the next two weeks or so, the worms will begin to move to the side where the new materials are located, leaving their compost behind. All that is needed at this point is to remove the old compost and replace it with fresh materials. Cover the new side of the composting bin to encourage the worms to migrate to the new side.

When you are ready to use your fresh worm compost, you can use several methods of extraction, but one method in particular seems to be the most effective. Dump the entire contents of the bin onto a large sheet of plastic and make several piles. Once exposed to the light, the worms will quickly bury themselves in the bottom of the compost within 2-3 minutes. After a few minutes, remove the top layer of compost, leaving the worms on the bottom. Once you have removed all of the worm compost, simply collect the worms and return them to the composting bin.

Worm compost material is ready to use immediately or if you choose, you can store it for later use. Worm compost can be added directly into your potting soil or mixed in with your garden soil as a soil amendment. If you notice a worm or two in the compost, don’t be alarmed. This is fairly common. Worm compost use is not limited to outdoor gardening. You can also use worm compost in the tops of your indoor plants. And no need to worry, the odor is not offensive.

Want more vermiculture tips? Visit: wormwoman.com.