The adult will emerge from the pupa. Wax worms look like dull white caterpillars. They have thick bodies and a dark head. A look at the shape of the rear margin of the wing will allow you to distinguish between males and females. The female has a relatively straight margin while it is indented or scalloped in males. After mating, the females will lay their eggs and the cycle will begin again.

Although they are considered parasites, man has found several used for wax worms. Wax worms may be raised for fish bait or they can be used for study in biology classrooms.
Wax worms may be found in abundance in honeycombs, they may be purchased from bait companies or biological supply houses, or you can harvest them your own.

According to Lee Townsend, Extension Entomologist at the University of Kentucky College of Agriculture, mature larvae can be harvested at 3-day intervals when they begin to spin cocoons. They readily crawl into pieces of folded paper towels or rolls of corrugated cardboard and spin their silken cocoons. Placing these items in the rearing containers will make it easy to collect and store full-grown larvae.

Two rearing containers will be needed. One for developing larvae and one for the adults to mate and lay eggs. A widemouth glass gallon jar is works for rearing the caterpillars, pint jars are ideal for the adults. Metal containers can be used but wood should be avoided because the larvae can chew through it. Lids or covers should be made with 20-mesh screen to allow some ventilation. After production is underway keep several rearing containers going at once. Wax worms can be safely stored for 2 to 3 months at 60° F and 60% humidity. The temperature in a typical refrigerator is too cold.

The silken cocoons can be removed from mature larvae by agitating them for about 20 minutes in diluted commercial bleach (1 part 5.25% sodium hypochlorite to 5 parts water). After the silk dissolves, the larvae should be rinsed with tap water and dried on toweling before being placed in storage.

A few pupae should be kept at 85° for adult emergence to keep the colony thriving. Place these pupae in a pint container with a strip of dark paper or a strip of wax paper folded like a fan and held with a paper clip. Females will lay their eggs on these strips. The egg papers can be transferred to rearing containers. About 1,000 eggs placed with about 1-1/2 pounds of diet should yield about 500 mature larvae.

Proper cleaning and sterilization of cages will help to reduce disease problem as well as growth of bacteria and fungi. The media can become over grown with these organisms or may become infested with stored product pests such as grain mites. Parasites or diseases may kill developing larvae. Keeping several, rather than one colony, will allow you to discard any in which problems develop without shutting down production. It is best to discard containers with these serious problems rather than attempting to salvage them.

There are four stages of development of the wax worm and moth – egg, larva (waxworm), pupa, and adult or moth. A single female can lay as many as 1,600 eggs. The eggs hatch in about 4 days and the larvae feed for about a month. The milky white to light tan larvae molt or shed their outer covering 7 times. Most of the growth and size increase occurs during the last 2 stages. The process takes about 6 to 7 weeks at 85° to 90° F and high humidity. Full-grown larvae spin a silken cocoon in which the pupal stage is passed.

The adult will emerge from the pupa. A look at the shape of the rear margin of the wing will allow you to distinguish between males and females. The female has a relatively straight margin while it is indented or scalloped in males. After mating, the females will lay their eggs and the cycle will begin again. Wax worms like dull white caterpillars. They have thick bodies and a dark head.

Harvesting Wax Worms

According to Lee Townsend, Extension Entomologist at the University of Kentucky College of Agriculture, mature larvae can be harvested at 3-day intervals when they begin to spin cocoons. They readily crawl into pieces of folded paper towels or rolls of corrugated cardboard and spin their silken cocoons. Placing these items in the **rearing containers will make it easy to collect and store full-grown larvae. They can be safely stored for 2 to 3 months at 60° F and 60% humidity. The temperature in a typical refrigerator is too cold.

The silken cocoons can be removed from mature larvae by agitating them for about 20 minutes in diluted commercial bleach (1 part 5.25% sodium hypochlorite to 5 parts water). After the silk dissolves, the larvae should be rinsed with tap water and dried on toweling before being placed in storage.

A few pupae should be kept at 85° for adult emergence to keep the colony thriving. Place these pupae in a pint container with a strip of dark paper or a strip of wax paper folded like a fan and held with a paper clip. Females will lay their eggs on these strips. The egg papers can be transferred to rearing containers. About 1,000 eggs placed with about 1-1/2 pounds of diet should yield about 500 mature larvae.

Proper cleaning and sterilization of cages will help to reduce disease problem as well as growth of bacteria and fungi. The media can become over grown with these organisms or may become infested with stored product pests such as grain mites. Parasites or diseases may kill developing larvae. Keeping several, rather than one colony, will allow you to discard any in which problems develop without shutting down production. It is best to discard containers with these serious problems rather than attempting to salvage them.

**Two rearing containers will be needed. One for developing larvae and one for the adults to mate and lay eggs. A widemouth glass gallon jar is works for rearing the caterpillars, pint jars are ideal for the adults. Metal containers can be used but wood should be avoided because the larvae can chew through it. Lids or covers should be made with 20-mesh screen to allow some ventilation. After production is underway keep several rearing containers going at once.

Refrigerator storage is the method of choice for wax worms. A door shelf is preferable, as the ideal temp for keeping them dormant is 50-55 degrees F. Before shipping, wax worm breeders treat them to prevent the larvae from cocooning. Remove the container lid temporarily and be sure to ventilate to eliminate moisture condensation. As long as they remain in hibernation, wax worms remain usable for three or more weeks. Keep them in the original container with the included shavings. Wax worms require no food.

If wax worms turn black, they are either in poor health or already dead. Check contents on a daily basis and discard any that are discolored. Once warmed to room temperature (about ten minutes), wax worms are ready to serve.

Always follow breeder instructions as not all recommend refrigeration. The wax worms may arrive in an early larval stage and require more feeding time to grow. The containers will typically include a medium that they will consume. When they begin attempting to crawl to the top of the container, they are probably ready to enter the pupa stage.

Some owners choose to breed their own wax worms. It’s fairly simple to do and kits are available that make the process even easier. At warmer temperatures, up to about 80 degrees F., wax worms will pupate and in a few days turn into moths. The moths lay eggs, the eggs hatch and the young larvae begin to feed on a honey-based feeding brick. Home formulas consist of honey, cereal, and glycerine. At this point, some of the larvae can be harvested for the fridge, cooled down, and preserved. Others will continue the life cycle.

If you choose to let them cocoon, give them a hiding space from which to hang. Take two small pieces of wood and drive nails into each end leaving space between the two pieces. Place it inside the container and the wax worms will attach and begin to spin a cocoon.

The pupae and adult moths are also attractive as prey food, especially lizards that bask on higher limbs. Wax worms are considered pests, however, and are especially damaging to honeycombs. A wild release of the adults is not recommended.

Always consult with animal experts to be sure wax worms are an option for feeding. Some reptiles and amphibians, in particular, are too small to digest them properly. Bait shops and pet retailers typically stock wax worms and they’re also available through many specialty Internet sites.

Wax worms are the caterpillar, or larva, stage of the wax moth. They are also called wax millers, bee moths, honeycomb moths, or even webworms. The two known species, which are referenced by size, are the lesser wax worm and the greater wax worm.

Like other moths, wax worms typically develop through four stages: eggs, larva, pupa, and adult. For beekeepers, wax worms are destructive at any stage. Adult moths will slip past the sentry bees and lay eggs. As caterpillars, they consume particles in the honey that may render the comb useless for selling. As they begin to spin a cocoon to enter the pupa stage, wax worms eat into the comb structure and frame of a beehive to attach their silk.

The combination of feeding and chewing can last up to seven months, but an entire bee colony can be decimated in thirty days, depending on the temperature. Wax worms are not entirely at fault for their destructive habits, however. A colony might disintegrate regardless, if a queen bee dies or the bee population dwindles, although it is also true that these hives are most susceptible to wax worm invasions.

While vilified by beekeepers, wax worms are a thriving market for scientific study, live fish bait, and as feeders. They contain high fat and protein content, which makes them an ideal treat for sickly or underweight reptiles and other types of aquarium animals. They should be fed out with some caution, however, as they are so tasty that some animals will decline other less-fattening food in favor of wax worms.

If you decide to raise your own wax worms, as some people do, be sure to purchase the proper glass or metal container. Wax worms are great escape artists, as they will chew through wood and plastic. If you’re lucky enough to know a beekeeper, you should be able to find a ready-made supply of wax worms; otherwise, they should be available through most pet supply stores and bait shops.

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