Silk Worms
Silk worms are often confused for worms, but they are not a member of the worm family at all. Instead, they are caterpillars that create a cocoon to complete the transformation process from caterpillar to butterfly. Silk worms create their cocoons after being alive for one month. It then takes three days for them to build a cocoon that they will live in for three weeks before emerging as a butterfly.

Earthworms
Earthworms create cocoons to protect their young offspring and embryos as they develop. The cocoon is created during the mating ritual and then buried in the ground until the offspring are ready to emerge.

Red Worms
Frequently used for composting, red worms create cocoons that are oval in shape and dark in color. These cocoons are created to protect eggs during the development stage of life. They are very strong and can last for several years protecting future generations from the elements. There have been many cases where red worm cocoons hatched young worms years after being created during the mating process.

Tomato Hornworms
Tomato Hornworms are closely relation to Tobacco Hornworms. They are not worms but do feed on tomato plants and other garden plants voraciously until they are ready to pupate and transform to the next stage of the life. Tomato Hornworms are fat, green worm like creatures that have excellent camouflage abilities; they are very difficult to see during the day as they blend in with the garden environment with ease.

Tomato Hornworms are really moths and they are garden pests of the worst variety as they ruin plants and destroy crops. Sometimes, these worms are seen with white cocoons on their backs. These cocoons should not be destroyed as they are the cocoon of the Braconid Wasp, a predator of the Hornworm. These wasps will help eliminate the Hornworms from your garden, not create more.

There are many creatures such as butterflies and beetles that are mistaken for worms during their early life development. True worms that make cocoons do so during the mating process as the cocoon is to protect eggs during development. In general, if you see a worm like creature creating a cocoon then it is an insect of another name.

Tomato and tobacco horn worms are typically 3 to 5 inches long and they have a large horn on their rear ends. This horn may look like it can do plenty of damage, but its actually pretty harmless. The tobacco horn worm has a red horn on its rear end and the tomato horn worm sports a black horn.

If you have ever suspected that you have been bitten by a tomato or tobacco horn worm, chances are it wasn’t a horn worm that bit you. A tomato or tobacco horn worm (or any horn worm or insect for that matter) will do whatever it can to protect itself, especially if you handle it for too long. However, it doesn’t defend itself by biting. A horn worm will spit out the contents of its stomach, it will wiggle and thrash about, and it may even wrap itself around your finger, but it does not have the capability to sting or pierce the skin. It is important to keep in mind, however, that the horn worms wrap can be quite uncomfortable, so it’s best not to handle them for too long.

Another issue with handling tomato and tobacco horn worms for too long has to do with parasite infestations. While the horn worm may be infected by a number of parasites, the most common is the braconid wasp. The larva hatch on the horn worm and it feeds on the horn worms insides until the wasp is ready to hatch. The cocoons are quite visible to the naked eye and they look like raised white bumps on the horn worms body. It’s probably not a good idea to handle a horn worm that shows signs of a parasite infestation, but leaving it in your garden can be a good thing. Once the wasps emerge from their cocoons, they will kill the horn worm host then seek out other horn worms to infest.

If you have a small garden and if you don’t notice white protrusions on any tomato or tobacco horn worms that you may see, it is ok to quickly handpick the horn worms from your garden. You can drop them in a bucket of water or snip them in half. This is considered an effective method for horn worm control in small gardens. Other effective methods of controlling horn worms in your garden include: rototilling and biological treatment. Rototilling means to turn up the soil after harvest. This will destroy any pupae that may be there.

Biological treatment with Bacillus thuringensis, or BT (e.g., Dipel, Thuricide), will kill horn worms and it is especially effective on smaller larvae. BT must be used with extreme caution because it can be harmful to humans.

If tomato hornworms are in your garden, chances are, they love what you’re growing. The tomato hornworm loves dill, potatoes, eggplant, peppers, and of course, tomatoes. Now, if you’re like most gardeners and you would like to save your plants from the tomato hornworm, continue reading to learn more about the tomato hornworm and how to control it.

Tomato hornworms are one of nature’s two most popular types of hornworms. The other is the tobacco worm. The scientific name for the tomato hornworm is Manduca quinquemaculata. While tomato hornworms are not considered harmful to humans, they are extremely harmful to plants, vegetables, and landscaping. Tomato hornworms appetites’ are extremely healthy, so they will nosh on your tomatoes, leaves, and fruits for hours and hours on end if you allow them to. In addition to tomatoes, tobacco and tomato hornworms are also attracted to eggplant, potato, and pepper.

Adult tomato hornworms are typically 3 to 5 inches long and they have a large black horn on their rear ends. This horn may look like it can do plenty of damage, but its actually pretty harmless. If you suspect that a tomato worm has bitten you, chances are it wasn’t a hornworm that bit you. A tomato hornworm (or any hornworm or insect for that matter) will do whatever it can to protect itself – especially if you handle it for too long. However, it doesn’t defend itself by “biting.” A hornworm will spit out the contents of its stomach, it will wiggle and thrash about, and it may even wrap itself around your finger, but it does not have the capability to sting or pierce the skin. It is important to keep in mind, however, that the hornworms’ “wrap” can be quite uncomfortable, so it’s best not to handle them for too long.

Another issue with handling tomato hornworm for too long has to do with parasite infestations. While the tomato worm may be infected by a number of parasites, the most common is the braconid wasp. The larva hatch on the tomato worm and it feeds on the worm’s insides until the wasp is ready to hatch. The cocoons are quite visible to the naked eye and they look like raised white bumps on the tomato hornworms body. It’s probably not a good idea to handle a tomato worm that shows signs of a parasite infestation, but leaving it in your garden can be a good thing. Once the wasps emerge from their cocoons, they will kill the tomato worm host then seek out other tomato hornworms to infest. This natural enemy is an effective treatment for tomato worm infestations.

If you have a small garden and if you don’t notice white protrusions on any tomato hornworm that you see, it’s ok to quickly handpick the tomato hornworm from your garden. You can drop them in a bucket of water or snip them in half. This is considered an effective method of tomato worm control in small gardens. Other effective methods of controlling tomato hornworms in your garden include: rototilling and biological treatment. Rototilling means to turn up the soil after harvest. This will destroy any pupae that may be there. Biological treatment with Bacillus thuringensis, or BT (e.g., Dipel, Thuricide), will kill the tomato hornworm and it is especially effective on smaller larvae. BT must be used with extreme caution because it can be harmful to humans.

While tomato horned worms are not considered harmful to humans, they are extremely harmful to plants, vegetables, and landscaping. Tomato horned worms appetites’ are extremely healthy, so they will nosh on your tomatoes, leaves, and fruits for hours and hours on end if you allow them to. In addition to tomatoes, tomato horned worms are also attracted to eggplant, potato, and pepper.

If you have a small garden and if you don’t notice white protrusions (sign of a parasite infestation) on any tomato horned worms that you see, it’s ok to quickly handpick the tomato worms from your garden in order to get rid of them. You can drop them in a bucket of water or snip them in half. This is considered an effective method of control in small gardens. Other effective methods of controlling tomato horned worms in your garden include: rototilling and biological treatment. Rototilling means to turn up the soil after harvest. This will destroy any pupae that may be there. Biological treatment with Bacillus thuringensis, or BT (e.g., Dipel, Thuricide), will kill the tomato worms and it is especially effective on smaller larvae. BT must be used with extreme caution because it can be harmful to humans.

Tomato Horned Natural Enemies

The tomato horned worm may be infected by a number of parasites at any given time, but the most common is the braconid wasp. The larva hatch on the tomato horned worm and it feeds on the worm’s insides until the wasp is ready to hatch. The cocoons are quite visible to the naked eye and they look like raised white bumps or protrusions on the tomato horned worms body. It’s probably not a good idea to handle a worm that shows signs of a parasite infestation, but leaving a few in your garden can be a good thing. Once the wasps emerge from their cocoons, they will kill the tomato horned worm host then seek out other tomato worms to infest. This natural enemy is an effective treatment for tomato horned worm infestations.

Garden worms come in all shapes and sizes and they play a major role in the survival of the earth’s fruits, vegetables, trees, and plants. Garden worms, such earthworms, are one of the largest groups of worms on the planet today. There are more than 4,400 different types of worms and of these worms there are 2,700 species of earthworm. The inchworm is one of the most popular types of earthworm.

Garden worms can be found in just about every corner of the earth. They live in trees, in bark, and under rocks as well as along rivers, near springs, and in ponds. Their favorite place to live, however, is burrowed inside the earth’s rich soil. During the winter months they burrow deep within the earth until the surface warms again during the spring. During the warm summer months, worms stay closer to the tops of soil where they create tunnels to wiggle in and out of. This process aerates the soil, meaning, it allows air and water to reach plant roots. Worms also eat organic matter, digest it, and excrete the digested material. This digested material is called “castings.” The castings are rich with phosphorus, calcium, and potassium.

Worm castings are so valuable and ten times richer in nutrients that commercial topsoil, that many gardeners and farmers use the composting method to fertilize plants and crops. Worm castings also help create channels within the layers of the earth’s soil, which helps to hold water better and keep moisture in the soil longer.

About Inchworms

The inchworm is a common type of worm that can show up just about anywhere – in gardens, on farms or in plants. So, whether you’re farmer, a gardener or an inchworm enthusiast, you may have experienced an inchworm infestation before. Unfortunately, an inchworm infestation can cause a large amount of damage to your crops, plants or garden. This might lead to the purchase of poisonous chemical remedies to treat the infestation. While these remedies may have been effective, you may have concerns about the toxic nature of these chemicals. Fortunately, there are several less toxic and non-toxic ways to control inchworm infestations.

Before we discuss how to get rid of inchworms via non-toxic methods, continue reading to learn more about the inchworm and several different types that destroy crops and plants.

Types of Inchworms

An inchworm is the larvae of moths of the family Geometridae (phylum Arthropoda, class Insecta, order Lepidoptera). This large, widely diffused group has more than 1,200 species indigenous to North America. Some inchworms (also “inch worm”) are considered average while others are considered extraordinary. Inchworms do, however, have many common characteristics. They have smooth, hairless bodies, and they typically grow up to one inch in length. Their colors run the gamut from brown and black to bright green.

Also referred to as loopers, measuring worms, and spanworms, inchworms have three pairs of legs at the front end and two to three pairs of prolegs or larval abdominal appendages at the rear. Inchworms travel by drawing their hind end forward while gripping the earth with its prolegs. They have the ability to stand erect and motionless when poked or prodded in any way.

Much like spiders, some inchworms have the ability produce thin delicate lines. In some cases, these thin lines are made of silk. It just so happens that one of the most destructive types of inchworms, called cankerworms, produces soft silk threads as they drop from trees to evade predators. Also called measuring worms, cankerworms vary in color, but their bodies consist of long horizontal stripes. Cankerworms feed on shrub foliage and tree foliage. These creatures like to hang out in apples, elms, oaks, lindens, sweetgums, and a wide variety of other shade and fruit trees.

Another type of inchworm, also called Looper and Cabbage Looper, overwinters as green to brown pupae tightly wrapped in cocoons (not webs) of white thread. In the spring, the adult moth emerges. The adult lays its eggs, typically on the surface of leaves. Once the larvae emerge, they feed for two to four weeks. Once they’ve had their fill, the larvae spin cocoons similar to the ones used during the overwinter process. The larvae prefer vegetable gardens and they eat a variety of crops including: celery, cabbage, cauliflower, radishes, Brussels sprouts, beans, parsley, broccoli, potatoes, tomatoes, and peas.

How to Get Rid of Inchworms

The following information can apply to many different types of garden pests. It is important to note that BT is effective in many cases.

Inchworms have natural predators, specifically Trichogramma wasps. Birds, yellow jackets and paper wasps also feast on inch worms, so allowing these types of animals and insects to roam free in your garden or around your crops should help control your inchworm population. Natural diseases and parasites also control inchworms. Wilt disease causes the inchworms body to rot. This usually happens late in the season. Bacillus thuringiensis, a wilt pathogen, is available to gardeners to help control infestations. This pathogen is only toxic to insects. If you would like more information about bacillus thuringiensis or to purchase products containing bacillus thuringiensis please visit: http://www.dirtworks.net/B.T.-Insecticidal-Soap.html.

Worm castings are so valuable and ten times richer in nutrients that commercial topsoil, that many gardeners and farmers use the composting method to fertilize plants and crops. Worm castings also help create channels within the layers of the earth’s soil, which helps to hold water better and keep moisture in the soil longer. Continue reading to learn more facts about worms.

·There are more than 4,400 different types of worms in existence today. Of the 4,400 species, there are 2,700 species of earthworm. There are more than 1,200 species of another type of worm called the inchworm.

·Earthworms belong to one of several different types of ecological groups. There are three broad ecological groups that have been identified for earthworms including: epigeic, endogeic, and anecic. The groups are based on what the earthworms eat and where they tend to live in the soil. The epigeic group is a litter feeder, litter dweller, pigmented, small in size, and it doesn’t burrow. The endogeic group consists of rich soil feeders, topsoil dwellers, has no pigmentation, burrows horizontally, and it is small in size. The anecic consists of litter and soil feeders, soil dwellers, dorsally pigmented bodies, extensive vertical burrows, and a large size. Size and color are usually good distinguishers for adult earthworms.

·Earthworms can be found in just about every corner of the earth. They live in trees, in bark, and under rocks as well as along rivers, near springs, and in ponds. Their favorite place to live, however, is burrowed inside the earth’s rich soil. During the winter months they burrow deep within the earth until the surface warms again during the spring. During the warm summer months, worms stay closer to the tops of soil where they create tunnels to wiggle in and out of. These tunnels are extremely important for plant life as they create a path for water and air, which is essential for the survival of plant life.

·The clitellum of adult earthworms contains features called genital tumescence, and tubercula pubertatis. The clitellum features, the male pores, and female pores are found above the clitellum and are all parts of the earthworm reproductive system.

·The earthworm has “setae” which are tiny hair-like projections that are arranged in rows along the earthworm body. The setae are used for locomotion by the earthworm.

·Places like China, Australia, Greenland, and the Sahara Desert have their own indigenous species of earthworms. Besides the Sahara Desert, you won’t find large numbers of worms living in “sandy” areas, especially sandy beaches. The vast majority of worms on our planet can only survive under certain environmental conditions.

·Worms have no lungs, so they breathe through their skin. This means that the worm’s environment and skin must be moist at all times. This allows the worm to breathe in oxygen. If the worm’s skin dries out, the worm will die from suffocation. While worms need moisture to survive, too much moisture can be fatal. If too much water is present, it takes the place of oxygen, which will cause the worms to flee to the surface. Once on the surface, worms will be exposed to sunlight. If worms remain in the sunlight for too long, they can become paralyzed.

·In addition to needing a moist environment for survival, worms must also remain close to their food supply. Worms feed off of leaves and dead grass, which contain organisms that provide a healthy diet of bacteria, algae, and fungi. Worms feast on dirt as well, especially if they live deeper inside the earth. Worms also eat plants, fruits and vegetables.

·Although you cannot see them, believe it or not, worms do have mouths. The earthworm mouth is called the prostomium. The worm’s mouth is actually big enough and powerful enough to grab a leaf and drag it around. They also have a pharynx, esophagus, crop, gizzard and intestine. When the worm eats its food, it pulls the materials into its mouth with the help of the pharynx and its prostomium (also called acron). This creates a suction motion. This suction motion aids in helping the worm consume large amounts of food in a sort amount of time. The gizzard grinds the food.

·Worms eat so much that they typically produce excrement equal to their own weight every 24 hours.

·The worm’s moist sustenance rich environment plays an extremely important role in reproduction as well. Worms prefer to mate and reproduce in warm moist soil, away from the light.

Handling Tomatoe Worms

Adult tomatoe worms are typically three to five inches long and they have a large black horn on the rear end. This horn may look like it can do plenty of damage, but its actually pretty harmless. If you suspect that a tomatoe worm has bitten you, chances are it wasn’t a hornworm. Hornworms, including tomatoe worms, will do whatever they can to protect themselves – especially if you handle them for too long. However, the tomatoe worm does not defend itself by “biting.” A hornworm will spit out the contents of its stomach, it will wiggle and thrash about, and it may even wrap itself around your finger, but it does not have the ability to sting or pierce the skin. It is important to keep in mind, however, that the tomatoe worm’s “wrap” can be quite uncomfortable, so it’s best not to handle them for too long, if at all.

Another issue with handling tomatoe worms for too long has to do with parasites. Tomatoe worms may be infected with any number of parasites at any given time, but the most common tomatoe worm parasite is the braconid wasp. The larva hatch on the tomatoe worm and it feeds on the worm’s insides until the wasp is ready to hatch. The cocoons are quite visible to the naked eye and they look like raised white bumps on the tomatoe worms body. It’s probably not a good idea to handle a tomatoe worm that shows signs of a parasite infestation, but leaving it in your garden can be a good thing. Once the wasps emerge from their cocoons, they will kill the tomatoe worm host then seek out other tomato worms to infest. This natural enemy is an effective treatment for tomatoe worm infestations.

Controlling Tomatoe Worms in Your Garden

If you have a small garden and you don’t notice white protrusions on any tomatoe worms that you see, it’s ok to quickly handpick the tomatoe worms from your garden. You can drop them in a bucket of water or snip them in half. This is considered an effective method of tomatoe worm control in small gardens. Other effective methods of controlling tomatoe worms in your garden include: rototilling and biological treatment. Rototilling means to turn up the soil after harvest. This will destroy any pupae that may be there. Biological treatment with Bacillus thuringensis, or BT (e.g., Dipel, Thuricide), will kill the tomatoe worms and it is especially effective on smaller larvae. BT must be used with extreme caution because it can be harmful to humans.

Adult tomato worms are typically 3 to 5 inches long and they have a large black horn on their rear ends. This horn may look like it can do plenty of damage, but its actually pretty harmless. If you suspect that a tomato worm has bitten you, chances are it wasn’t a hornworm that bit you. A tomato hornworm (or any hornworm or insect for that matter) will do whatever it can to protect itself – especially if you handle it for too long. However, it doesn’t defend itself by “biting.” A hornworm will spit out the contents of its stomach, it will wiggle and thrash about, and it may even wrap itself around your finger, but it does not have the capability to sting or pierce the skin. It is important to keep in mind, however, that the hornworms’ “wrap” can be quite uncomfortable, so it’s best not to handle them for too long.

Another issue with handling tomato worms for too long has to do with parasite infestations. While the tomato worm may be infected by a number of parasites, the most common is the braconid wasp. The larva hatch on the tomato worm and it feeds on the worm’s insides until the wasp is ready to hatch. The cocoons are quite visible to the naked eye and they look like raised white bumps on the tomato worms body. It’s probably not a good idea to handle a tomato worm that shows signs of a parasite infestation, but leaving it in your garden can be a good thing. Once the wasps emerge from their cocoons, they will kill the tomato worm host then seek out other tomato worms to infest. This natural enemy is an effective treatment for tomato worm infestations.

If you have a small garden and if you don’t notice white protrusions on any tomato worms that you see, it’s ok to quickly handpick the tomato worms from your garden. You can drop them in a bucket of water or snip them in half. This is considered an effective method of tomato worm control in small gardens. Other effective methods of controlling tomato worms in your garden include: rototilling and biological treatment. Rototilling means to turn up the soil after harvest. This will destroy any pupae that may be there. Biological treatment with Bacillus thuringensis, or BT (e.g., Dipel, Thuricide), will kill the tomato worms and it is especially effective on smaller larvae. BT must be used with extreme caution because it can be harmful to humans.

Adult tomato and tobacco hornworms are typically 3 to 5 inches long and they have a large horn on their rear ends. This horn may look like it can do plenty of damage, but its actually pretty harmless. The tobacco hornworm has a red horn on its rear end and the tomato hornworm sports a black horn.

If you have ever suspected that you have been bitten by a tomato or tobacco hornworm, chances are it wasn’t a hornworm that bit you. A tomato or tobacco hornworm (or any hornworm or insect for that matter) will do whatever it can to protect itself – especially if you handle it for too long. However, it doesn’t defend itself by “biting.� A hornworm will spit out the contents of its stomach, it will wiggle and thrash about, and it may even wrap itself around your finger, but it does not have the capability to sting or pierce the skin. It is important to keep in mind, however, that the hornworms’ “wrap� can be quite uncomfortable, so it’s best not to handle them for too long.

Another issue with handling tomato and tobacco hornworms for too long has to do with parasite infestations. While the hornworm may be infected by a number of parasites, the most common is the braconid wasp. The larva hatch on the hornworm and it feeds on the hornworms insides until the wasp is ready to hatch. The cocoons are quite visible to the naked eye and they look like raised white bumps on the hornworms body. It’s probably not a good idea to handle a hornworm that shows signs of a parasite infestation, but leaving it in your garden can be a good thing. Once the wasps emerge from their cocoons, they will kill the hornworm host then seek out other hornworms to infest.

If you have a small garden and if you don’t notice white protrusions on any tomato or tobacco hornworms that you may see, it is ok to quickly handpick the hornworms from your garden. This is considered an effective method of hornworm control in small gardens. Another effective method of controlling tomato and tobacco hornworms in your garden is the use of insecticides.

Tomato and tobacco hornworms are typically 3 to 5 inches long and they have a large horn on their rear ends. This horn may look like it can do plenty of damage, but its actually pretty harmless. The tobacco hornworm has a red horn on its rear end and the tomato hornworm sports a black horn.

If you have ever suspected that you have been bitten by a tomato or tobacco hornworm, chances are it wasn’t a hornworm that bit you. A tomato or tobacco hornworm (or any hornworm or insect for that matter) will do whatever it can to protect itself, especially if you handle it for too long. However, it doesn’t defend itself by biting. A hornworm will spit out the contents of its stomach, it will wiggle and thrash about, and it may even wrap itself around your finger, but it does not have the capability to sting or pierce the skin. It is important to keep in mind, however, that the hornworms wrap can be quite uncomfortable, so it’s best not to handle them for too long.

Another issue with handling tomato and tobacco hornworms for too long has to do with parasite infestations. While the hornworm may be infected by a number of parasites, the most common is the braconid wasp. The larva hatch on the hornworm and it feeds on the hornworms insides until the wasp is ready to hatch. The cocoons are quite visible to the naked eye and they look like raised white bumps on the hornworms body. It’s probably not a good idea to handle a hornworm that shows signs of a parasite infestation, but leaving it in your garden can be a good thing. Once the wasps emerge from their cocoons, they will kill the hornworm host then seek out other hornworms to infest.

If you have a small garden and if you don’t notice white protrusions on any tomato or tobacco hornworms that you may see, it is ok to quickly handpick the hornworms from your garden. This is considered an effective method of hornworm control in small gardens. Another effective method of controlling tomato and tobacco hornworms in your garden is by using insecticides.