Garden worms can be found in just about every corner of the earth. They live in trees, in bark, and under rocks as well as along rivers, near springs, and in ponds. Their favorite place to live, however, is burrowed inside the earth’s rich soil. During the winter months they burrow deep within the earth until the surface warms again during the spring. During the warm summer months, worms stay closer to the tops of soil where they create tunnels to wiggle in and out of. This process aerates the soil, meaning, it allows air and water to reach plant roots. Worms also eat organic matter, digest it, and excrete the digested material. This digested material is called “castings.” The castings are rich with phosphorus, calcium, and potassium.

Worm castings are so valuable and ten times richer in nutrients that commercial topsoil, that many gardeners and farmers use the composting method to fertilize plants and crops. Worm castings also help create channels within the layers of the earth’s soil, which helps to hold water better and keep moisture in the soil longer. So as you can see, you might not want to get rid of earthworms, but there are a few worms that might be considered pests. Just a few garden “pest” include tomato worms, fruit worms, boil worms, and many different types of inchworms.

The inchworm is a common type of worm that can show up just about anywhere – in gardens, on farms or in plants. So, whether you’re farmer, a gardener or an inchworm enthusiast, you may have experienced an inchworm infestation before. Unfortunately, an inchworm infestation can cause a large amount of damage to your crops, plants or garden. This might lead to the purchase of poisonous chemical remedies to treat the infestation. While these remedies may have been effective, you may have concerns about the toxic nature of these chemicals. Fortunately, there are several less toxic and non-toxic ways to control inchworm infestations.

An inchworm is the larvae of moths of the family Geometridae (phylum Arthropoda, class Insecta, order Lepidoptera). This large, widely diffused group has more than 1,200 species indigenous to North America. Some inchworms (also “inch worm”) are considered average while others are considered extraordinary. Inchworms do, however, have many common characteristics. They have smooth, hairless bodies, and they typically grow up to one inch in length. Their colors run the gamut from brown and black to bright green.

Also referred to as loopers, measuring worms, and spanworms, inchworms have three pairs of legs at the front end and two to three pairs of prolegs or larval abdominal appendages at the rear. Inchworms travel by drawing their hind end forward while gripping the earth with its prolegs. They have the ability to stand erect and motionless when poked or prodded in any way.

Much like spiders, some inchworms have the ability produce thin delicate lines. In some cases, these thin lines are made of silk. It just so happens that one of the most destructive types of inchworms, called cankerworms, produces soft silk threads as they drop from trees to evade predators. Also called measuring worms, cankerworms vary in color, but their bodies consist of long horizontal stripes. Cankerworms feed on shrub foliage and tree foliage. These creatures like to hang out in apples, elms, oaks, lindens, sweetgums, and a wide variety of other shade and fruit trees.

Another type of inchworm, also called Looper and Cabbage Looper, overwinters as green to brown pupae tightly wrapped in cocoons (not webs) of white thread. In the spring, the adult moth emerges. The adult lays its eggs, typically on the surface of leaves. Once the larvae emerge, they feed for two to four weeks. Once they’ve had their fill, the larvae spin cocoons similar to the ones used during the overwinter process. The larvae prefer vegetable gardens and they eat a variety of crops including: celery, cabbage, cauliflower, radishes, Brussels sprouts, beans, parsley, broccoli, potatoes, tomatoes, and peas.

How to Get Rid of Inchworms

The following information can apply to many different types of garden pests. It is important to note that BT is effective in many cases.

Inchworms have natural predators, specifically Trichogramma wasps. Birds, yellow jackets and paper wasps also feast on inch worms, so allowing these types of animals and insects to roam free in your garden or around your crops should help control your inchworm population. Natural diseases and parasites also control inchworms. Wilt disease causes the inchworms body to rot. This usually happens late in the season. Bacillus thuringiensis, a wilt pathogen, is available to gardeners to help control infestations. This pathogen is only toxic to insects. If you would like more information about bacillus thuringiensis or to purchase products containing bacillus thuringiensis please visit: http://www.dirtworks.net/B.T.-Insecticidal-Soap.html.

Also known as “white grubs” or “white grub worms,” grubs are either white or gray, with a dark posterior abdomen and a brown head. Their bodies curl into C-shape. If you see a grub worm or several grub worms writhing around on your lawn, don’t panic. Grub worms are harmless to humans.

Grub worms feed on plants and the roots of turf grasses and the adult beetles feed on trees, shrubs, and other foliage. While grubs are harmless to humans, they can be devastating to crops because they feed on crop roots. Grub worms have three larval stages, with the third being the most devastating to crops. They hatch from eggs laid in soil and they also pupate in the soil. Fortunately, the adults are not considered turf pests.

Its easy to tell whether you have a grub worm infestation or not by the condition of your grass and the types of animals foraging around in your lawn or in your crops. When grub worms feed on grass roots, the grass turns yellow and dies. You will notice scattered brown patches of grass and the grass will pull up very easily. If you notice an increase in birds, moles, raccoons, and depending on what part of the country you live in, armadillos, this may be because you have a grub infestation. If you notice wasps in large numbers hovering over your grass, this may also be a sign of a white grub infestation.

Before attempting to treat a grub worm infestation, you can confirm that you have an infestation by digging up the top three to four inches of soil, roots, and thatch. Simply sift through the materials and look for the larvae. If you find any grubs, its time to explore treatment options.

Grub worms have natural enemies such as ants, ground beetles, scoliids, and tiphiids. These natural predators may help to control the problem as well as keeping the soil dry, if at all possible. Preventative measures include insecticides such as Ortho Grub-B-Gon Max, Merit, Arena, Mach2, and Season-Long Grub Control.

If you are purchasing worms from a retailer, chances are they will not have grubs in them. If you plan to find your own worms, then you should examine the soil and the worms for grubs. Simply sift through the worms and soil to look for larvae. Continue reading to learn more about grubs, what they look like, and how to determine if you have a infestation. You will also find more information below about composting and how to create the perfect compost.

About Grubs

Also known as “white grubs,” grub worms are the larvae of scarab beetles. Grub worms are either white or gray, with a dark posterior abdomen and a brown head. Their longish wormlike bodies curl into C-shape. If you see a grub worm or several grub worms writhing around on your lawn, don’t panic. Grub worms are harmless to humans.

Numerous species of grub worms currently exist all over the United States in most northern and midwestern states, as well as in Florida. Just a few common grubs include the Japanese beetle (Popillia japonica), May-June beetle (Phyllophaga fusca), false Japanese beetle (Strigoderma arbicola), northern masked chafer (Cyclocephala borealis), green June beetle (Cotinus nitida), European chafer (Rhizotrogus majalis), black turfgrass atanius (Ataenius spretulus), southern masked chafer (Cyclocephala lurida), and the Asiatic garden beetle (Maladera castanea).

Grub worms feed on plants and the roots of turf grasses and the adult beetles feed on trees, shrubs, and other foliage. While grub worms are harmless to humans, they can be devastating to crops mainly because they feed on crop roots. Grub worms have three larval stages, with the third being the most devastating to crops. They hatch from eggs laid in soil and they also pupate in the soil. Fortunately, the adults are not considered turf pests.

Its easy to tell whether you have a grub worm infestation or not by the condition of your grass and the types of animals foraging around in your lawn or in your crops. When grub worms feed on grass roots, the grass turns yellow and dies. You will notice scattered brown patches of grass and the grass will pull up very easily. If you notice an increase in birds, moles, raccoons, and depending on what part of the country you live in, armadillos, this may be because you have a white grub infestation. If you notice wasps in large numbers hovering over your grass, this may also be a sign of a white grub infestation.

Before attempting to get rid of grub worms, you can confirm that you have an infestation by digging up the top three to four inches of soil, roots, and thatch. Simply sift through the materials and look for the larvae. If you find them—it’s time to explore treatment options.

About Composting

To create the perfect small-scale worm compost you will need several items including:

·Raw fruits and vegetables
·A shallow container (24″ X 18″ X 8″ should suffice) with a lid
·Moist Leaves
·Worms, preferably red worms such as Eisenia foetida or Lumbricus rubellus

One of the first things you should do when worm composting is to purchase the red worms, if you have not already raised several hundred on your own. Red worms can be purchased from a number of online retailers or at most plant and/or pet stores. Next, wash out the worm composter you are using. If you have a wooden composter, line the bottom of it with sturdy plastic such as a heavy trash bag or shower curtain. Mix the organic materials together and add the worms. It takes roughly 3-5 months for the worms to eat through the materials. At this time, you will notice very little materials and a hefty amount of compost. Once this happens, it’s time to harvest.

Harvesting means: do not add any food to the bin for two weeks. When two weeks has passed, simply move all of the worm bin contents to one side of the bin and remove any large pieces of undecomposed materials. Add fresh materials – leaves, fruits and vegetables, to the empty side of the bin. Over the next two weeks or so, the worms will begin to move to the side where the new materials are located, leaving their compost behind. All that is needed at this point is to remove the old compost and replace it with fresh materials. Cover the new side of the worm composter to encourage the worms to migrate to the new side.

When you are ready to use your fresh worm compost, you can use several methods of extraction, but one method in particular seems to be the most effective. Dump the entire contents of the worm composter onto a large sheet of plastic and make several piles. Once exposed to the light, the worms will quickly bury themselves in the bottom of the compost within 2-3 minutes. After a few minutes, remove the top layer of compost, leaving the worms on the bottom. Once you have removed all of the worm compost, simply collect the worms and return them to the composter.

Worm composting material is ready to use immediately or if you choose, you can store it for later use. Worm compost can be added directly into your potting soil or mixed in with your garden soil as a soil amendment. If you notice a worm or two in the compost, don’t be alarmed. This is fairly common. Worm compost use is not limited to outdoor gardening. Because the odor is not offensive, you can also use worm compost in the tops of indoor plants.

Earthworms also burrow into the soil creating passageways for oxygen and water. Because earthworms are so important to the survival of the earth’s plants, trees, and crops, when trying to get rid of destructive creatures such as grubs, you must take special care not to harm the earthworms. There are several ways to accomplish this.

Before we discuss how to get rid of grub worms without killing earthworms, it is important to understand the lifestyle of the grub worm. Grub worms feed on plants and the roots of turf grasses and the adult beetles feed on trees, shrubs, and other foliage. While grub worms are harmless to humans, they can be devastating to crops mainly because they feed on crop roots. Grub worms have three larval stages, with the third being the most devastating to crops. They hatch from eggs laid in soil and they also pupate in the soil. Fortunately, the adults are not considered turf pests.

Its easy to tell whether you have a grub worm infestation or not by the condition of your grass and the types of animals foraging around in your lawn or in your crops. When grub worms feed on grass roots, the grass turns yellow and dies. You will notice scattered brown patches of grass and the grass will pull up very easily. If you notice an increase in birds, moles, raccoons, and depending on what part of the country you live in, armadillos, this may be because you have a white grub infestation. If you notice wasps in large numbers hovering over your grass, this may also be a sign of a white grub infestation.

Before attempting to get rid of grub worms, you can confirm that you have an infestation by digging up the top three to four inches of soil, roots, and thatch. Simply sift through the materials and look for the larvae. If you find them—its time to explore treatment options.

One way to get rid of grub worms is by letting nature take its course. Do not treat your garden or lawn with chemicals that will kill natural enemies such as ants, ground beetles, scoliids, and tiphiids. These natural predators may help control the problem. Next, you can keep the area moist enough to keep the earthworms alive, but dry enough to repel grub worms. Grub worms prefer wet areas, while earthworms prefer “moist” soil.

You can also use a number of preventative measures on the tops of grassy areas where you see grubs. Milky spore and sevin are effective as well as Ortho Grub-B-Gon Max, Merit, Arena, Mach2, and Season-Long Grub Control. The earthworms live in soil, so be careful not to saturate the soil.

What exactly is a grub?

Also known as “white grubs,” grub worms are the larvae of scarab beetles. Grub worms are either white or gray, with a dark posterior abdomen and a brown head. Their longish wormlike bodies curl into C-shape. If you see a grub worm or several grub worms writhing around on your lawn, don’t panic. Grub worms are quite harmless to humans.

Numerous species of grub worms currently exist all over the United States in most northern and midwestern states, as well as in Florida. Just a few common grubs include the Japanese beetle (Popillia japonica), May-June beetle (Phyllophaga fusca), false Japanese beetle (Strigoderma arbicola), northern masked chafer (Cyclocephala borealis), green June beetle (Cotinus nitida), European chafer (Rhizotrogus majalis), black turfgrass atanius (Ataenius spretulus), southern masked chafer (Cyclocephala lurida), and the Asiatic garden beetle (Maladera castanea).

About Grub Worms

Also known as “white grubs” or “white grub worms,” grub worms are the larvae of scarab beetles. White grub worms are either white or gray, with a dark posterior abdomen and a brown head. Their longish wormlike bodies curl into C-shape. If you see a grub worm or several grub worms writhing around on your lawn, don’t panic. Grub worms are quite harmless to humans.

Numerous species of white grub worms currently exist all over the United States in most northern and Midwestern states, as well as in Florida. Just a few common White grubs include the Japanese beetle (Popillia japonica), May-June beetle (Phyllophaga fusca), false Japanese beetle (Strigoderma arbicola), northern masked chafer (Cyclocephala borealis), green June beetle (Cotinus nitida), European chafer (Rhizotrogus majalis), black turfgrass atanius (Ataenius spretulus), southern masked chafer (Cyclocephala lurida), and the Asiatic garden beetle (Maladera castanea).

White grub worms feed on plants and the roots of turf grasses and the adult beetles feed on trees, shrubs, and other foliage. While white grubs are harmless to humans, they can be devastating to crops because they feed on crop roots. White grubs have three larval stages, with the third being the most devastating to crops. They hatch from eggs laid in soil and they also pupate in the soil. Fortunately, the adults are not considered turf pests.

Its easy to tell whether you have a white grub worm infestation or not by the condition of your grass and the types of animals foraging around in your lawn or in your crops. When white grub worms feed on grass roots, the grass turns yellow and dies. You will notice scattered brown patches of grass and the grass will pull up very easily. If you notice an increase in birds, moles, raccoons, and depending on what part of the country you live in, armadillos, this may be because you have a white grub infestation. If you notice wasps in large numbers hovering over your grass, this may also be a sign of a white grub infestation.

Before attempting to treat a white grub worm infestation, you can confirm that you have an infestation by digging up the top three to four inches of soil, roots, and thatch. Simply sift through the materials and look for the larvae. If you find them, then its time to explore treatment options.

White grub worms have natural enemies such as ants, ground beetles, scoliids, and tiphiids. These natural predators may help to control the problem as well as keeping the soil dry, if at all possible. Preventative measures include insecticides such as Ortho Grub-B-Gon Max, Merit, Arena, Mach2, and Season-Long Grub Control.

Its easy to tell whether you have a grub worm infestation or not by the condition of your grass and the types of animals foraging around in your lawn or in your crops. When grub worms feed on grass roots, the grass turns yellow and dies. You will notice scattered brown patches of grass and the grass will pull up very easily. If you notice an increase in birds, moles, raccoons, and depending on what part of the country you live in, armadillos, this may be because you have a white grub infestation. If you notice wasps in large numbers hovering over your grass, this may also be a sign of a white grub infestation.

Before attempting to get rid of grub worms, you can confirm that you have an infestation by digging up the top three to four inches of soil, roots, and thatch. Simply sift through the materials and look for the larvae. If you find them, then its time to explore treatment options.

Grub worms have natural enemies such as ants, ground beetles, scoliids, and tiphiids. These natural predators may help to control the problem as well as keeping the soil dry, if at all possible. Preventative measures include insecticides such as Ortho Grub-B-Gon Max, Merit, Arena, Mach2, and Season-Long Grub Control.

What exactly is a grub worm?

Also known as “white grubs,” grub worms are the larvae of scarab beetles. Grub worms are either white or gray, with a dark posterior abdomen and a brown head. Their longish wormlike bodies curl into C-shape. If you see a grub worm or several grub worms writhing around on your lawn, don’t panic. Grub worms are quite harmless to humans.

Numerous species of grub worms currently exist all over the United States in most northern and Midwestern states, as well as in Florida. Just a few common grubs include the Japanese beetle (Popillia japonica), May-June beetle (Phyllophaga fusca), false Japanese beetle (Strigoderma arbicola), northern masked chafer (Cyclocephala borealis), green June beetle (Cotinus nitida), European chafer (Rhizotrogus majalis), black turfgrass atanius (Ataenius spretulus), southern masked chafer (Cyclocephala lurida), and the Asiatic garden beetle (Maladera castanea).

Numerous species of white grub worms currently exist all over the United States in most northern and Midwestern states, as well as in Florida. Just a few common White grubs include the Japanese beetle (Popillia japonica), May-June beetle (Phyllophaga fusca), false Japanese beetle (Strigoderma arbicola), northern masked chafer (Cyclocephala borealis), green June beetle (Cotinus nitida), European chafer (Rhizotrogus majalis), black turfgrass atanius (Ataenius spretulus), southern masked chafer (Cyclocephala lurida), and the Asiatic garden beetle (Maladera castanea).

White grub worms feed on plants and the roots of turf grasses and the adult beetles feed on trees, shrubs, and other foliage. While white grubs are harmless to humans, they can be devastating to crops because they feed on crop roots. White grubs have three larval stages, with the third being the most devastating to crops. They hatch from eggs laid in soil and they also pupate in the soil. Fortunately, the adults are not considered turf pests.

Its easy to tell whether you have a white grub worm infestation or not by the condition of your grass and the types of animals foraging around in your lawn or in your crops. When white grub worms feed on grass roots, the grass turns yellow and dies. You will notice scattered brown patches of grass and the grass will pull up very easily. If you notice an increase in birds, moles, raccoons, and depending on what part of the country you live in, armadillos, this may be because you have a white grub infestation. If you notice wasps in large numbers hovering over your grass, this may also be a sign of a white grub infestation.

Before attempting to treat a white grub worm infestation, you can confirm that you have an infestation by digging up the top three to four inches of soil, roots, and thatch. Simply sift through the materials and look for the larvae. If you find them, then its time to explore treatment options.

White grub worms have natural enemies such as ants, ground beetles, scoliids, and tiphiids. These natural predators may help to control the problem as well as keeping the soil dry, if at all possible. Preventative measures include insecticides such as Ortho Grub-B-Gon Max, Merit, Arena, Mach2, and Season-Long Grub Control.

The hammerhead flatworm does not help to control other pest populations as most worms do. They actually kill and eat earthworms, exclusively. The hammerhead flatworm is considered a parasite and it devours its only prey by pushing its throat outside if its mouth and snapping up any part of the earthworms body. It melts the earthworms body with an enzyme and slowly eats it until the earthworm is completely consumed.

The hammerhead flatworm can reach up to 20 inches long and its body is very slimy, which allows it to move along the ground in a gliding motion. The body secretes mucus from glands on its belly or underside. The hammerhead is native to Indo-China, but it makes its way around the world by traveling in greenhouse plants. For the most part, hammerhead flatworms can survive just about anywhere, so no one region is 100% safe. While this unique worm can survive in scorching hot to freezing climates, they may suffer somewhat in drier regions.

Hammerhead flatworm sightings are common in the early morning hours, especially after a hard rain. They are nocturnal however, and they love wet surfaces. This means that they will stick to just about any surface that’s wet or moist, as well as on tree branches and trunks. Keep in mind that there are several varieties of land planarians. Two of the most common sightings are the hammerhead flatworm and the flatworm with a pointy head (instead of a hammerhead) and a dark brown body. The hammerhead flatworm is usually medium-brown in color with dark markings or stripes. Some hammerhead worms may appear gray to greenish/gray as well. All types feed on earthworms, so beware.

If you have a hammerhead flatworm infestation, there are several ways to control and/or kill populations. The first thing to keep in mind is if you attempt to chop them up or even smash them, the pieces will only regenerate into new hammerhead flatworms. So, it you chop the flatworm into 7 pieces, you will end up with 7 new worms! Hammerhead flatworms must dissolve completely in order to get rid of them. Effective treatment methods include: salt, vinegar, and citrus oil. These products must be applied directly to the flatworms in order to be effective. Spreading them around the soil or areas where you the worms have been spotted won’t dissolve these parasites completely. You can use a spray bottle for the vinegar and citrus oil methods and you can simply pour the salt over the worms to dissolve them. Good luck!

Numerous species of white grubs currently exist all over the United States in most northern and Midwestern states, as well as in Florida. Just a few common White grubs include the Japanese beetle (Popillia japonica), May-June beetle (Phyllophaga fusca), false Japanese beetle (Strigoderma arbicola), northern masked chafer (Cyclocephala borealis), green June beetle (Cotinus nitida), European chafer (Rhizotrogus majalis), black turfgrass atanius (Ataenius spretulus), southern masked chafer (Cyclocephala lurida), and the Asiatic garden beetle (Maladera castanea).

White grubs feed on plants and the roots of turf grasses and the adult beetles feed on trees, shrubs, and other foliage. While white grubs are harmless to humans, they can be devastating to crops because they feed on crop roots. White grubs have three larval stages, with the third being the most devastating to crops. They hatch from eggs laid in soil and they also pupate in the soil. Fortunately, the adults are not considered turf pests.

It’s easy to tell whether you have a white grub infestation or not by the condition of the grass and the types of animals foraging around in your lawn or in your crops. When white grubs feed on grass roots, the grass turns yellow and dies. You will notice scattered brown patches of grass and the grass will pull up very easily. If you notice an increase in birds, moles, raccoons, and depending on what part of the country you live in, armadillos, this may be because you have a white grub infestation. If you notice wasps in large numbers hovering over your grass, this may also be a sign of a white grub infestation.

Before attempting to treat a white grub infestation, you can confirm that you have an infestation by digging up the top three to four inches of soil, roots, and thatch. Simply sift through the materials and look for the larvae. If you find them, then it’s time to explore treatment options.

White grubs have natural enemies such as ants, ground beetles, scoliids, and tiphiids. These natural predators may help to control the problem as well as keeping the soil dry, if at all possible. Preventative measures include insecticides such as Ortho Grub-B-Gon Max, Merit, Arena, Mach2, and Season-Long Grub Control.

A number of beetle species, including June, chafer, and Japanese beetles, are identified as grub worms. During the stages from eggs to grub to pupa, they spend about ten months in the ground. That gives them plenty of time to damage root systems. As larvae, they are staged through three growth periods, or instars. In fact, the annual cycle leaves little time for adult activity. In mid-summer eggs are laid and hatch in approximately 30 days. The youngsters begin consuming plant roots. They grow at a rapid pace, doing the most significant damage through late October as third instars. As temperatures drop, grubs burrow until early spring. By May, the grub worms are ready to “fledge.� As beetles, they emerge around June and the cycle continues.

Not all pesky grub worms destroy a plant’s root system. Some species may also dine on decaying materials. This is detrimental to seedling growth as it smothers the roots. These grubs rarely do as much damage as those that feed below turf. Ornamentals and other vegetation sometimes fall under attack as well.

Moles, birds, raccoons, and other wildlife prey upon grub worms, but not enough to control the population. As these creatures search for grubs, however, they can also damage the landscape.

Early intervention is necessary, usually with biological or chemical treatments. First, however, it is important to verify that grub worms are the culprits. They can be detected by digging into about four inches of soil in a 12-inch diameter section. This should be done in several spots to determine the level of infestation. If only 2-5 grub worms are sighted at each dig, no controls may be necessary. Heavier inhabitation can cause patchy yellow or brown spots to develop, and by then it may be nearly too late.

Some species of grub worms, in the adult stage as beetles, are also considered pests that can defoliate aboveground greenery. Others are harmless as adults and simply live only to mate and lay eggs.

Grub worms are often sporadic pests. They may be overly present in a drought when lawns are well watered by human hand and become less invasive when rain is abundant.